UPDATE - Found a Cat trailer that looks pretty good, is there anything I’m missing?

[2ndAmend]

This trailer only has 4 anchor points, one at each corner. I like the side wheel net/losso but I have nothing to attach to.

Does anyone know if someone makes a hook that can catch the trailer frame? Here is a mock-up with a coat hanger. It would be great to have something like this in 1/2" alloy steel. I can make something, but if anyone has seen anything like this please let me know, thanks!

 

[Jimmy N.]

I would put bolt-on D-rings on the frame rail instead, with a decent size backing plate.

Ideally close to a crossmember.

 

[2ndAmend]

I would put bolt-on D-rings on the frame rail instead, with a decent size backing plate.

Ideally close to a crossmember.

That is my fall back option.

 

[2ndAmend]

As I have said before, I know nothing about towing a vehicle on a trailer or how to secure it. I greatly appreciate all the help you guys are providing and it will hopefully help me avoid mistakes and buying crap that doesn't work.

I do understand statics and dynamics, so I can add this:

When a strap is at an angle to the load, here are the factors:

Angle---Increase in strap tension
60-------1.15x
45-------1.41x
30-------2x
15-------3.86x

If you decel at 1g with a 4500# car and the 4 straps shift to 15deg to hold it back, the load in each strap is 4500/(sin15*4)=4346# per strap, higher if the load is not shared equally (it never is). This is a simplistic calculation but it does demonstrate the point. At 1g it gets eerily close to the breaking point of the straps, and a collision might be considerably above 1g, plus my calculations do not consider impulse of the car moving to the 15deg point then straps suddenly stopping it. I really like the lasso, but I’ll add a pair of straight rear straps.

 

[Jimmy N.]

It's not as bad as you may think. WLL (working load limit) on typical 2-inch straps is 3,000, but the breaking point is much higher.

Well, unless you buy your straps at Harbor Freight, Home Depot, or some similar place. Then they could be and act quite different.

 

[DGatzby]

As I have said before, I know nothing about towing a vehicle on a trailer or how to secure it. I greatly appreciate all the help you guys are providing and it will hopefully help me avoid mistakes and buying crap that doesn't work.

I do understand statics and dynamics, so I can add this:

When a strap is at an angle to the load, here are the factors:

Angle---Increase in strap tension
60-------1.15x
45-------1.41x
30-------2x
15-------3.86x

If you decel at 1g with a 4500# car and the 4 straps shift to 15deg to hold it back, the load in each strap is 4500/(sin15*4)=4346# per strap, higher if the load is not shared equally (it never is). This is a simplistic calculation but it does demonstrate the point. At 1g it gets eerily close to the breaking point of the straps, and a collision might be considerably above 1g, plus my calculations do not consider impulse of the car moving to the 15deg point then straps suddenly stopping it. I really like the lasso, but I’ll add a pair of straight rear straps.

With four points to hold a load I believe you need to divide the load by four sir.

 

[2ndAmend]

With four points to hold a load I believe you need to divide the load by four sir.

"If you decel at 1g with a 4500# car and the 4 straps shift to 15deg to hold it back, the load in each strap is 4500/(sin15* 4 )=4346# per strap, higher if the load is not shared equally (it never is)."

But thanks for checking, I do make lot of mistakes, but I did divide by 4. Adding a pair of longitudinal straps on the rear will add a lot of safety and comfort. But again, I have zero experience transporting a vehicle, which is why I really appreciate the help!

 

[DavidKFla]

Everyone has their own way of strapping a car down. I've always been a x strap attached through the wheels.

I've seen quite a few come loose on the trailer when they strap above the suspension.

Just my peanut gallery opinion.

You have to figure out what works for you and keep a very close eye on what's going on back there and constantly check everything.

 

[Jimmy N.]

DavidKFla, just for clarity, my "like" for your post above does not include the crossed straps.

 

[DavidKFla]

DavidKFla, just for clarity, my "like" for your post above does not include the crossed straps.

 

[Jimmy N.]

Ask the (legit) manufacturers of straps how they feel about it.

 

[DavidKFla]

Ask the (legit) manufacturers of straps how they feel about it.

I no longer have a trailer so it doesn't matter to me anymore...

 

[Jimmy N.]

I no longer have a trailer so it doesn't matter to me anymore...

What about when the next hurricane comes by?

Then you may want those straps to be pristine, so you can open all those doors and run two straps from one side to the other to something solid at ground level.

 

[DavidKFla]

What about when the next hurricane comes by?

Then you may want those straps to be pristine, so you can open all those doors and run two straps from one side to the other to something solid at ground level.

What are you smoking?

 

[MMissile]

Everyone has their own way of strapping a car down. I've always been a x strap attached through the wheels.

I've seen quite a few come loose on the trailer when they strap above the suspension.

Just my peanut gallery opinion.

You have to figure out what works for you and keep a very close eye on what's going on back there and constantly check everything.

I cross straps in the rear. That started when my WO car got loose on the way home from the chassis shop. My right slick was against the trailer fender. It was all new, with fresh paint. Scary to say the least. That was also when I still let the suspension move. I now check the car after 15 minutes, and an hour. If it's good, it isn't going anywhere.

 

[DavidKFla]

I cross straps in the rear. That started when my WO car got loose on the way home from the chassis shop. My right slick was against the trailer fender. It was all new, with fresh paint. Scary to say the least. That was also when I still let the suspension move. I now check the car after 15 minutes, and an hour. If it's good, it isn't going anywhere.

I've had better luck with it.

 

[2ndAmend]

I am interested in the discussion on crossed rear straps. They seem to provide both lateral and longitudinal retention. Seems with cross straps, a lateral lasso might not be necessary in the rear.

At 45deg, a 1g decel would put 4500/(sin45*2)=3182# per strap, still within working load. I like the idea but I am listening to the discussion. Thanks!

 

[Jimmy N.]

What are you smoking?

Nothing. We have clean air here, and no hurricanes or alligators. But I do know that stuff needs to be tied down when feces hits the fan.

Either way, crossing the straps is not a good idea. I used to do it at the back of my Jeep before I knew better.

 

[Bowlerguy92]

Ok, pulled the trigger and now it's home. It looks very clean, checked every weld, no cracks. I don't know a lot about these trailers but it looks pretty solid, 2x4 alum tube (box) full length, and the suspension is a complete separate bolt-on steel unit so all suspension stress goes into a formed 1/4"tk steel angle that is about 5' long and the alum frame is cradled on the angle. No stress points.

A 10k tilt steel tilt trailer would be better, but this 1335# one is right for me and the 1/2t.

Thanks for all the help!!!

Thanks in advance

 

[TraxMoe]

I have an enclosed 24' trailer and use tire nets to secure it to e-trac. I'm not to keen on anchoring the car frame to the trailer, that is hard on the suspension. The open trailer makes for easy loading and tying down. @DGatzby has a great way to to transport his RE on his open trailer with the tire nets setup. But while I was coming back from Road America last year I was caught in a hail storm in Iowa and strong gusty winds and ended up with $30k worth of damage to the trailer and truck. But the car didn't suffer any damage though. The car didn't move around one bit.