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Wheel stud replacement

16GoManGoHC2

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#1
I need longer studs for track day wheel and rim combo. Are the studs removable and replaceable? If yes hassle to do or no? Wanted to put these longer ARP ones in

5C4DA376-E321-417C-AF35-5D8E8CA653B3.jpeg
 


Hpindy

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#2
I went with the ARP studs. I put an old nut on the factory studs then drove them out wth a hammer .
The new one I put a bunch of flat washers on them then used an old nut the "draw" them in with my impact wrench . I then torqued them to spec to make sure they were seated .

I check the torque often to make sure they are good . I only had to retorque a few the first 100 miles . None have came loose since

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OP
16GoManGoHC2

16GoManGoHC2

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Thread Starter #3
The usual take caliper off, take disc off and hub with lugs right there? Any clearance issues with space getting the longer ones in from the back?
Would use your same technique in getting old out new in. How much time per wheel it take you?
 


Hpindy

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#4
The usual take caliper off, take disc off and hub with lugs right there? Any clearance issues with space getting the longer ones in from the back?
Would use your same technique in getting old out new in. How much time per wheel it take you?
Sorry yes I removed the caliper and rotor .
The longer studs go in from the bottom. As in put the hole where the stud goes at the 6 o clock position and the stud will go right in .
I'd say plan on 30 mins per wheel ( from jacking up to letting it back down ). It's not hard at all .

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16GoManGoHC2

16GoManGoHC2

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Thread Starter #5
Cool, THANK YOU!!
 


BULL

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#6
Sorry yes I removed the caliper and rotor .
The longer studs go in from the bottom. As in put the hole where the stud goes at the 6 o clock position and the stud will go right in .
I'd say plan on 30 mins per wheel ( from jacking up to letting it back down ). It's not hard at all .

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

Are you saying to don't have to pull the hub off to exchange studs???


Wow...
 


Hpindy

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#7
Are you saying to don't have to pull the hub off to exchange studs???


Wow...
I didn't. I just an old wheel nut and a bunch of washers to "draw" the new stud in . It's actually pretty easy . A bit time consuming but easy .

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Chuck

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#8
Did mine but pulled brg hub comes off real easy then you can just pound them in
 


T_Trahan44

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#9
If anyone needs a tool, I know quite a few Auto parts stores that sell them cheap to make the job a bit easier. ;)
 


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#10
Had all the studs replaced on my 16 with 1 inch longer ARP (to use 3/4 inch pass thru spacers).
I didn't do it myself, and took the shop most all day. They said it was a pain in the a**.
 


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16GoManGoHC2

16GoManGoHC2

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Thread Starter #11
These correct? ARP on right, Stock from the dealer on left, they correct? Shoulder is shorter, will they work??
image.jpg
 


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TMAC

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#12
I put the longer Doorman studs on all 4 corners.
 


coolblue

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#13
Other than a special wheels combo that would require a longer stud, and therefore a reason to swap out, are the factory studs known to be weak?
 


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#14
These correct? ARP on right, Stock from the dealer on left, they correct? Shoulder is shorter, will they work??
View attachment 8566



My measly .02 is that if that shoulder isn't as long as the flange is thick, I wouldn't do it...

Is it functional, probably, is it as resistant to angular torque as it could be, NO...

Again, just my .02
 


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#15
When you run slicks or something with good traction your stud needs to go into head of lugnut so it don’t shear off
 


OP
16GoManGoHC2

16GoManGoHC2

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Thread Starter #16
Yea, agree, I don’t like them either. Will be spinning 315/50-17 MT Street R’s so I’ll be looking for exact match just 10mm longer then stock. Mine as well change the axels while waiting on them and spring :(
.02 always welcome
Thanks guys :)
 


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16GoManGoHC2

16GoManGoHC2

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Thread Starter #17
Other than a special wheels combo that would require a longer stud, and therefore a reason to swap out, are the factory studs known to be weak?
The 17x10.5 Race Stars with 315/50-17 MT Street R’s needed spaced out 12 mm so need longer studs for them.
Here’s a sketch I gave to my machine shop buddy to make me a set, adjust thickness as needed and pilot OD if a ring is needed.
39017304-5A95-4445-9C45-165031DFD1A0.jpeg
 


coolblue

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#18
That is such a perk when you got somebody in a machine shop that can make 'special' or 'just right' parts for your app. Buy that guy a nice Xmas present. LOL. Also, why can't he just make the concentric hole the right size instead of 78.1 with a pilot ring? Either way, 12MM is a hell of a spacer! I think 3 or 5MM would be my max comfort zone to compensate for rim tire combo.
 


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16GoManGoHC2

16GoManGoHC2

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Thread Starter #19
Race star rim pilot is 78.1, Hellcat is 71.5, allot of rims come with plastic concentricity bushings, the pilot on the spacer incorporates the pilot bushing into it. Yes, wasn’t too happy having to use a spacer but it’s the sidewall bulge of the 315/50-17 tire that’s the issue, a 305 wouldn’t need it. I need all the tire I can get and These are just track day combo so they’ll suffice.
 


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16GoManGoHC2

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Thread Starter #20
Need wide body flares for these, it’s 2 mm from inner fender wall hard point that’s not movable, but if they hook, which I’m sure they will it’ll be hello 9 second passes 71254841-23AB-4C36-A448-F62AC1AA7BAC.jpeg C11B5965-92D2-4724-A582-7E1B6B05E8C6.jpeg 50FAEAEF-A967-42A2-91E5-E4635CD68142.png :)
 




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