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IC Chiller install & review

BULL

Oh NO! Not that guy!
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I made a video detailing my installation, as I said I would. I am not a YouTuber, and I never do that. But, perhaps, it will help someone out. I think it is worth a watch. I have a lot of time into the installation. Enjoy.


Thank you, I added this to my YT watch later list
 


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Thread Starter #382
I did not see a real need for the foam and did not want to deal with it later when it deteriorates and starts crumbling off. What a mess.

Having said that, I have not noticed any condensation on the thick fuel rated rubber hose I used from Improved Racing. Likewise, the braided line is dry. I get condensation on the metal fittings and the stock hardline pipes.
Have had the insulation on for over 2 years and it’s still like brand new. You CANNOT have condensation dripping on a track, they will kick you off the starting line. Condensation also becomes a hazard if the water drips and gets on your tires, which it will as soon as the coolant goes above freezing, which will be after your burnout and 60’. The insulation will keep the coolant cooler longer, as well as prevent/absorb any condensation
 


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Thread Starter #383
After compiling comments, doing further research, and performing some additional testing, I think the ideal charge for an IC Chiller on a Redeye Charger is 1.8 lbs (28.8 oz).

Stock calls for 1.5 lbs. I also found that a non RE (no OEM chiller) takes 22 oz, or 2 oz less than a RE. So, the information is tracking. I am 4.8 oz over stock now. I did see a performance increase from 27.2 oz to 28.2 oz. I saw it go the other way at 2 lbs (or 32 oz). There may be a little room for improvement, but it would be hard to measure. And, adding charge without a performance increase is not the best. I chose to err with not over-filling. Thanks for all the contributors!

Mod complete.
So how cool does it get?
 


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I am seeing IC coolant temps of high 50s with ambient being between 88 and 98. So, the coolant is 35-40 degrees cooler than ambient. Keep in mind there would be a much larger difference between IC Coolant temps before and after the chiller; I am looking an ambient air. It seems to see nearly 40 degrees in difference whether it is 85 or 95 degrees outside. When I go to chiller only mode (turning off all cabin AC), it is another 10 to 15 degrees colder. So, this weekend, with 90 degree weather (very humid in Central FL), I saw 46 IC coolant temps.

The lines are all very icy. I am also using the aux tank. When I installed and first tested this in the winter, I did see IC coolant temps of 30 degrees in chiller only mode. But, it was 60 degrees outside. This thing definitely works better than stock, but it was A LOT of work. I had to sort and chase a lot of issued and leaks. It seems dialed now.
 


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Thread Starter #385
Interesting, I’m able to get it down below freezing. Did you vacuum fill the system?
 


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Interesting, I’m able to get it down below freezing. Did you vacuum fill the system?
Of course. I even left it under vacuum for a week to make sure there were zero leaks. The needle moved none. I have it charged to 1.8 lbs.
 


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Thread Starter #387
Of course. I even left it under vacuum for a week to make sure there were zero leaks. The needle moved none. I have it charged to 1.8 lbs.
I was talking about the coolant
 


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Thread Starter #388
Mine never goes above 55 F at the top of the track on a 90 degree day, and that’s when it’s around 30 after the burnout. Also in soggy FL


IMG_3540.jpeg IMG_3539.jpeg IMG_3538.jpeg
 


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Thread Starter #389
Can get it even cooler on a chilly day. I had mine professionally filled with the R-1234 YF
 


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Thread Starter #390
Chilly day : IMG_3541.jpeg
 


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Thread Starter #391
Mine is charged above 28 oz
 


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Thread Starter #392
I think 28.5 or so
 


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Hmmm, yeah, I don't know. Mine was also professionally charged the first time (before I had a freon leak), and it performed the same. I broke down and bought gauges so that I could find the problem, test it, etc. I charged it up with R134. There is no R123yf left. In theory, R134 should be even colder. I weighed the freon in. I am OCD, so trust me, it is perfect. We have the same amount of freon essentially, if you are at 28.5 oz.

You are running a challenger I see. Do you have the stock HX at all? Maybe mine is sapping some cooling when it is in bypass? It's not flowing, but the fluids can touch. I have the ability to do all HX or all chiller. Also, look at the data you posted from the performance pages screen shot. How is your IC coolant at 78 and your air intake temp is 26? How would air intake temp ever be 26? Nitrous? It would seem impossible to have IAT below IC coolant temp...
 


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Thread Starter #394
Hmmm, yeah, I don't know. Mine was also professionally charged the first time (before I had a freon leak), and it performed the same. I broke down and bought gauges so that I could find the problem, test it, etc. I charged it up with R134. There is no R123yf left. In theory, R134 should be even colder. I weighed the freon in. I am OCD, so trust me, it is perfect. We have the same amount of freon essentially, if you are at 28.5 oz.

You are running a challenger I see. Do you have the stock HX at all? Maybe mine is sapping some cooling when it is in bypass? It's not flowing, but the fluids can touch. I have the ability to do all HX or all chiller. Also, look at the data you posted from the performance pages screen shot. How is your IC coolant at 78 and your air intake temp is 26? How would air intake temp ever be 26? Nitrous? It would seem impossible to have IAT below IC coolant temp...
The older challengers the gauge is swapped - that’s actually IC coolant temp. I have the big main heat exhanger, got rid of the small one where the chiller goes. My chiller is inline all the time, so even bypassed to HX it has to run through the chiller first. The way I have it plumbed is so that there’s as little chance as possible for it to back feed into the HX. I also do not use an AUX tank. More volume = more time chilling. All of my lines are insulated. Rubber and aluminum.
 




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