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Aftermarket parts - what works and what is a waste of cash?

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DGatzby

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Thread Starter #121
Dang! is that your cup2 up front? and comparing it to the cup2 in the rear?

We've got to do something about that for you. Once again... not enough negative camber up front...

We all know how these cars understeer... Another thing to do is change the balance of the stabilizer bars. See if you can get the car into more of a neutral balance or one of a happy tail balance. Loosen/soften up the front (i know counter intuitive) and stiffen up the rear. This will force some of the weight transfer onto both side tires and to get it to rotate around a center axis instead of just one side tire and an axis that is not near the center of the car.

Another thing to consider unfortunately is driver input. I mean, lets face it... none of us are pro race drivers... that's why when the coach/instructor drives our car, it does all kinds of things for them it never seems to do for us.

Even with a perfect setup, a jerky turn-in... or just unsmooth (is that a word?) driver can throw the car and upset the suspension such that it's simply not going to make the turn... or it's going to make it, but it's going to make it and complain the whole way.

Do you have a way to look at data from your runs? Something that would provide running data for steering angle input? Something like a Solo2DL, or similar product, could tell you where you are on the track, and amongst a billion other datapoints, tell you steering angle. Viewing that in graphical format would show us if it's spikey or nice and linear.

Just some random thoughts that I hope you dont mind.
Most of that shoulder was worn when we looked at it in Oklahoma before they had a mile on track! Considering what they have done since, I am thinking I am close. Over the winter I’ll play with the front. But to get more camber, I need to play with the toe up there. I have a good feeling about the little setting change I did in the back yesterday. The little “testing” yesterday felt much better. So I’ll report back on the turn-in, cornering, throttle control, gee forces etc. tomorrow. I want to see lap times. I have not been able to be confident enough to throw more than one G at it the past three days at BIR. Really I have not all summer yet. Last week was close, but it still was “off”.
 


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Thread Starter #122
You need to stop harder. ;)
Yep, sure I let them warm up easy. Then was holding them HARD to a scary fade in #3. My mind was set on busting on them. Not to be.
 


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Thread Starter #123
Here are my tires after 5 track days and less than 1000 street miles if memory serves correctly. From top to bottom
Driver Front
Driver Rear
Passenger Front
Passenger Rear
My Driver Rear is the most heavily worn which makes sense in that most corners on CW tracks will be right turns and I'm usually pretty aggressive at coming out of corners. The other 3 tires are wearing pretty similarly and probably had 1 more track day in them. My Driver Rear was starting to delaminate.
These are 305/35 R888R on all 4s with 10.5 front and 11 rear wheels. MP springs with a Hotchkis front bar.
View attachment 25099
Those rocks don’t tell a camber story too well. Here is three of my four rocks, the other is on the floor, but looks like it’s brothers. They look about like yours. Ha, maybe not so worn on the edges! AAD top arm holding the camber more static under load? I rotate them around the car on the 11” wheels. Next up when those value items wear out will be the OEM PZero PZ4’s. I am putting them on and seeing what they will do.

Nothing resembles the outside shoulder on the Cup 2. I think they largely got sanded down new on the road between Joplin, MO and Tulsa, and a big front toe number impacted by the camber settings. I got two more heat treated ready for next season. So if I waste them tomorrow, good job.

3982DE9A-46F9-4AF2-91E4-9703F5F91ED5.jpeg
 


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Those rocks don’t tell a camber story too well. Here is three of my four rocks, the other is on the floor, but looks like it’s brothers. They look about like yours. Ha, maybe not so worn on the edges! AAD top arm holding the camber more static under load? I rotate them around the car on the 11” wheels. Next up when those value items wear out will be the OEM PZero PZ4’s. I am putting them on and seeing what they will do.

Nothing resembles the outside shoulder on the Cup 2. I think they largely got sanded down new on the road between Joplin, MO and Tulsa, and a big front toe number impacted by the camber settings. I got two more heat treated ready for next season. So if I waste them tomorrow, good job.
Yours are definitely less worn than mine but I think you also haven't used them that much.
I can't rotate my wheels front to rear, downside of not having a WB.
Do you think the Cup 2 is a softer tire than a R888R? I have no direct experience on that but it would surprise me.
 


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Thread Starter #125
Yours are definitely less worn than mine but I think you also haven't used them that much.
I can't rotate my wheels front to rear, downside of not having a WB.
Do you think the Cup 2 is a softer tire than a R888R? I have no direct experience on that but it would surprise me.
Yes. The Cup 2 acts dramatically different well warmed up too. Those tires are bargains TD. I don’t think I have as much time in them, but still they really wear well. I want to get the best out of the bigger ones. Then drop back and see how much difference is in the smaller set. Maybe not much?
 


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"unsmooth (is that a word?)"

Definitely!
 


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Good luck finding a brake pad changer for a fee. Takes longer to unbolt-remove-replace-bolt-torque a wheel, than changing pads. They will laugh, be careful.
I called around and found a guy who said he'd do it for $10,000.

Thanks for the heads up!
 


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Thread Starter #128
I called around and found a guy who said he'd do it for $10,000.

Thanks for the heads up!
I’ll do each weeeknd for $7500 plus travel.
 


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Thread Starter #129
It works and I like it. It actually will corner somewhat and even stop again. That felt so much better. Did the Comp course one session and beat all my previous times. Next up, my favorite configuration; Donnybrook this afternoon. Skipped the second torture session on the short course. Feeding up at Five Guys to prepare.
 


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@TrackDay report back when you research the viper caliper. Very curious about this.

@DGatzby sounds like you’re trying the right things and learning along the way.... Great personal experience rather than “i read....” or “i heard....” Good stuff!!
 


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I’ll do each weeeknd for $7500 plus travel.
Heck my value of money must be a lot different. I'd do it for $1000 plus travel. 🤕
 


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It works and I like it. It actually will corner somewhat and even stop again. That felt so much better. Did the Comp course one session and beat all my previous times. Next up, my favorite configuration; Donnybrook this afternoon. Skipped the second torture session on the short course. Feeding up at Five Guys to prepare.
Videos or it didn't happen. Of course I'm talking about Five Guys . . .
 


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Thread Starter #133
Videos or it didn't happen. Of course I'm talking about Five Guys . . .
Thanks for the wake up chuckle. Maybe nobody uses the 5-Guy app in Baxter? The Chinese Pandemic has me loaded up on all the good fast food apps for my lunches at work. Their Cajun Fries are the shit IMO. I must be one of the cook’s best friends. Last Monday he greeted me with a loud Mr. Zzzzz! Yesterday, same deal, greeted me with a big HELLO Mr. Zzzzz as soon as I walk in the door. Been called out by a fellow Forum man so...:D:LOL::ROFLMAO:

61A5101B-55AF-485A-9E5E-5033E8B598A2.jpeg

I will try to at least get some film footage put together tonight. I need to go stay in a hotel for a couple of nights. I logged a 1:49 short track in the app, lots of consistent low1:50’s and based on how well it is taking #2, the long course was a blast again for me. FINALLY! I entered #1 generally btw 105-to maybe a 115 or so. I believe we are good at about 120, now I just need to get the braking/timing right getting from supersonic down to those speeds peacefully, as you know. Next years work! I am done with Harry’s app, yesterday it did something it NEVER has done. First it failed and the app crashed! Starting the first lap, first long track session; nice. Then did not do lap data, I simply have 20 minutes of bullshit. Thankfully it triggered the Go-Pro. Second session, we had some mid-1:50’s, and I think given the shitty shape of the paving btw #8-10 now, that may be as good as a tank like ours’ can do, especially looking at how well it keeps up and even passes others. Mine had a awful time with traction thru there, especially with bands of rubber from drifting shows. Seemed like except a Viper ACR and two race prepped and well driven LT1’s the heavy red sled held its own well. Looks like lots of great HDPE footage to show everyone. You would have loved to be in a couple of these sessions. At least until we catched the intermediate groups of cars. The laps of the second afternoon session was late and hampered by about 200 yds of cat litter on the left side or something after someone sprung a coolant line at about 150 just past the 1/4 mile clocks late in the first session. Yes my friends, traction can be problematic at 150+mph, with 800 hp, but damn it makes you come right off the throttle.
 


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I’ll do each weeeknd for $7500 plus travel.
Heck my value of money must be a lot different. I'd do it for $1000 plus travel. 🤕
A bidding war! Yes! But whoever wins still has to buy the beer!
 


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It works and I like it. It actually will corner somewhat and even stop again. That felt so much better. Did the Comp course one session and beat all my previous times. Next up, my favorite configuration; Donnybrook this afternoon. Skipped the second torture session on the short course. Feeding up at Five Guys to prepare.
Five Guys for a manly meal before a personal best lap time challenge! To settle one's stomach and fuel one's adrenaline.

If they'd had Five Guys on the aircraft carrier no doubt the preferred meal of every fighter pilot before a dawn launch.

Really looking forward to your videos and damn glad to hear your suspension mods and alignment clicking on the track.
 


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Thread Starter #136
Five Guys for a manly meal before a personal best lap time challenge! To settle one's stomach and fuel one's adrenaline.

If they'd had Five Guys on the aircraft carrier no doubt the preferred meal of every fighter pilot before a dawn launch.

Really looking forward to your videos and damn glad to hear your suspension mods and alignment clicking on the track.
My guess is your car will feel and perform well for you, based on your numbers.
 


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All,

This is a great thread centered around improving the Challenger's handling and cornering, with emphasis on fully harnessing the power of our cars by improving rear wheel traction. I sure have learned a lot from this thread, and from DGatzby's generous and detailed answers to technical questions I posed to him in emails, from DGatzby's trials and tribulations he published here as a forum pioneer (and other posters responding to his posts), and from communicating with the owners of aadperformance.com, from whom DGatzby and I obtained adjustable front upper control arms, adjustable rear upper control arms, adjustable rear toe links and non-adjustable lower control arms (often referred to as trailing arms as I've learned).

Rear cradle bushings from whitelineperformance.com and the AAD parts were installed by my Dodge dealership last week. I've only driven the car home - a half hour with freeway and country roads. First impressions on the street are very positive. Tomorrow I'll take it out for another street evaluation. In October I'll track the car at NCM and Putnam Park - and I'll post here how the car handles. I don't have the experience to give a really good review, but I'll try. I'll have an instructor in the car who can add his impressions.

These parts, and the dealership labor to install them, was not cheap. Installation labor was $1,808.95 (two days they had the car) plus $2,257 in AAD parts, plus $187 for the Whiteline bushing kit (I got them on sale) totals $4,254. To cap off the handling mods I've ordered some triumphforged.com custom wheels - 12" rears, 11" fronts - that will have Michelin Pilot 4S tires in size 345/30R20 and 315/30R20 respectively.

Why do this? It's my new hobby - I retired on September 1st. I planned for years to get a modern muscle car - my eye on these Challengers - and saved up the money. The 2019 Red Eye coincidentally was available just when I was ready to buy my dream car. The new suspension parts are the result of doing HPDE last October - that arena of amazing cars, enthusiastic drivers and various performance modifications is infectious! The new parts should make my car safer, are very strong so I'm not worried about warranty, and allow for adjustment of camber and rear toe. I'm hopeful the alignment settings I have now will prove the right ones. If so I won't mess with a good thing. If not I can attempt to fine-tune. All the camber settings are more negative than stock. Here they are;

Camber front left -2.0
Camber front right -2.2
Camber rear left -1.5
Camber rear right -1.5
Front and rear toe (all four wheels) .10 (a positive value means the front of the tires point inward - just a little is ideal for stability)

I'm sure DGatzby would agree working out the desired alignment settings was a workout in adjustable tab trial and error. Everyone wants perfection, but it is rarely achievable in suspensions with the stresses and strains and interrelated "moving" parts. They aren't supposed to move after being bolted up, but it seems there is always a little "play" after a car is set back on its wheels and rolled around. My SRT mechanic said getting the right tabs in the AAD parts to get the above values was a process and took replacing tabs (despite my best estimate starting with tabs I thought would work) and three alignments. It's an art, and a science, and all our car's stock suspension values can be a bit different for various reasons. I'd bet a paycheck (Ha! Retired, don't have one!) that if they put my car up on the alignment rack and after an easy hour on the road and checked the alignment values they'd be slightly different. Maybe even surprisingly different. But like horseshoes, hand grenades and nuclear weapons, close is almost always good enough. It comes down to how the car feels wringing it out. The exception, as DGatzby found out on the track, is getting toe settings close - to have that high speed, hard acceleration out of a corner stability.

Does anyone need to spend extra money to have great fun with any of our Challenger models? I sure don't think so. I felt conflicted messing with a perfectly good - a great - car. But I had the money set aside, the intention of tracking my car 6-8 days every season (Northern Kentucky), and very fortunately DGatzby up there in Minnesota to guide me - and the rest of you forumites with tracking experience to add to my knowledge base. It's a journey, but the journey often is the destination!

Best,

Finface
 


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Thread Starter #138
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Thread Starter #139
Now let’s look at brake pads. My research project has produced some interesting results. This result retains my confidence in the calipers. I may change other items, but the calipers seem to be working fine.

What works? Hawk DTC-70 Racing Pads for the track. Z26 Powerstop for the street.

What does not work, in both places? OEM Brembo!

What works and why?

Track- Hawk, wears evenly, works superior with respect to stopping.
Street- Z26, kind to Rotors, no dust, adequate stopping power for the street.

What don’t?

Track- Brembo, wear quickly, tapered wear pattern, AND has less stopping power compared to Hawk.

Street- Brembo, grinds the rotors and causes excessive wear. Dust is unacceptable. Causes all wheels to look like crap. IS THE BREMBO RELATIONSHIP THE REASON THE WHEELS ARE BASICALLY BLACK, AND NOT OFFERED IN CHROME AND LIGHTER COLORS?

The research was easy and has taken place over several years now, but the last two Mondays have offered a good chance to look close at the front pads and do a real comparasion.

1. I have been through SEVERAL sets of DTC-70 pads exclusively for track use. While they also show some tapered wear, they do not show the extreme taper I found after ONE track day on brand new Brembo pads.
2. I have used a set of Powerstop Z26’s on the Redeye and its’ rotors since new. They have about 7500 miles now. The numbers below speak for themselves. It is no surprise, the rotors look new. I have used the OEM rotors with these pads for their life so far.
3. I put the brand new set of Brembos on the car and did one extremely similar day of racing two weeks ago.
4. I put like my 5th brand new set of Hawk DTC-70’s on last Monday, and did the similar day of racing as #3. Same driver, same car, same rotors, same track, similar weather.
5. I also have results below for a set of Hawk pads; two days of racing at Road America, and two days at BIR. Admittedly, the car was not performing correct (working with alignment problems caused less than full use of the brakes, because it simply was not necessary). This could be comparable to how they might react to a less aggressive driver, or a beginner and intermediate level driver in the HPDE events. That is good news people. Seems like you can get 4-6 days, if you are not pounding them. Screw up and I hear you can waste them in a morning!

I took pictures yesterday to demonstrate this conclusion. The only thing I will consider as a change to my braking formula is to consider the rotors we have been teased about from @CDT Rotors next season. @CDT Rotors if you have the correct timing prior to next season, let’s see it. Otherwise, I will be continuing with Demon Performance Rotors for my track set up. They are lighter, and very durable and have held up now for three seasons for me. They can go into next season also if necessary, the slots’ depth indicates they have miles of wear remaining.

I took a caliper and measured the pad thickness for the examples for this report, but also to prove to myself what my average pad wear is per day at the track. That is important of course so that I avoid ever bottoming one out and damaging a good rotor, or being stranded and not able to drive home because I chose to drive to the track that day and not trailer it.

Powerstop fronts = All four pads; 19/32” consistent thickness, more than 7500 miles!!

Hawk DTC-70 one day BIR Comp/Long Config
Little taper, easy to flip for the next racing day.
16/32-18/32”
16/32-17.5”
16-17”
17-18”

Brembo OEM new, one day BIR Comp
16/32-20/32”
15.5/32-19/32”
15/32-19.5/32”
15/32-20/32”

Hawk DTC-70 rears; both recent BIR days, were new.
All are basically 15.5/32” - 16/32”. Pretty consistent thickness/wear.

What do I have? A set of Brembos that will go into the trash. They fail in all respects. Enough said.

A set of Hawks will get one day and another set that will get two days. Just will be flipping them to maximize wear.

Look for yourselves..

Below..
Rear DTC two days/Front DTC one day/Front Brembo one day/Front Z26 7500 street miles.
927A9EAF-7C4D-4412-812F-4DA41D80B871.jpeg

Closer look, lose the rears, moved the Brembo pads to show how tapered the wear is...

Hawk DTC/Brembo/Z26 compare again.

3B2488E0-45FE-4566-BC69-D51AF2D89E8B.jpeg

For my buddies wondering about the front set of Cup 2’s. As seen in the movies, I had minimal mercy, and sure enough, at the edge of the outside shoulder, after checking it yesterday off the car, it has broken through and it’s thread layer edge is visible and exposed. WELL DONE- next up? This winter yours truly will be working with the AAD arms I have installed and my DIY alignment device here to get maximum camber adjusted in with the appropriate toe-in.

I got the back dialed in finally, absolutely near perfect side-to-side balanced tire wear, good handling, and one little tweak from the perfect setting that won’t need touched ever again, hint, hint;). Not real easy and a bit expensive to dial-in through trial and error and finally checking everything and one trial, that confirmed I nearly have it!
 


sad

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That’s good stuff @DGatzby thanks for sharing
 




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