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Stronger lug nuts for Racestars?

AlleyCat

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#1
So I broke one and my friend helping me broke one. We were able to take the wheel off and get the nut off the stud with some pliers. What part number and brand would be a stronger option?
 


Decay

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#2
How did this happen?
Rattle gun?
 


SilverBillet

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#3
How do you “break” a lugnut. What actually broke? I heard of breaking a stud but not lugnuts?? Factory lugnuts have a sheet metal cover on them that can get dented and deformed and sometimes get separated off the actual lugnut. Aftermarket lugs for your RaceStars should be solid. You cannot break a lugnut?
 


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AlleyCat

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Thread Starter #5
They broke where the head goes to the sleeve. With a torque wrench. He broke one and I broke one. They were easy to get off the studs with pliers . Thanks Motorhead.
 


hellno

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#6
Ok I had the same issue happen to mine , what I found was when you install them be sure in a triangle pattern install 3 just run them in to stop to align the wheel then install them ( I torque mine to 110 ft lbs , here is what I found out the hard way make sure you loosen all the lugs first before removing them , don’t remove one at a time without first loosening the others or they will sieze up
 


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#7
Just for science sake, what brand were the ones that broke?
 


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AlleyCat

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Thread Starter #8
The Racestars ones.
 


SilverBillet

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Racestar needs to know they have a QC problem...I would be afraid to use those on an 800 HP car!
 


Marc W

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#10
RaceStar has had horrible lug nuts in the past. Absolutely the worst Chinese crap. I have been told that they have finally done something about it and are correcting the problem (meaning that they are providing high quality pieces now). This is second hand info as I do not use the RaceStars anymore. I have no doubt that my friend was told this directly by RaceStar but whether they are doing it or not is a good question. I would suggest calling them and telling them about the problem and see what they say.
 


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#11
That’s a weird problem. Mine were on and off, torqued to 111ftlb dozens of times, never had one fail.
I’m not a fan of the washer and shank design and overall quality of the combination, but never broke one over 3 years.
 


Decay

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#12
I am on and off a lot also and have never had a problem.
Knock on wood!
 


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AlleyCat

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Thread Starter #13

Maybe they are breaking due to my launches. Did a modest new best in Tucson last night. 9.70 vs 9.75 two weeks ago.
 


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Mean Cat

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#14
1 thing that helps too on shank lug nuts , is to use anti seize on the stud threads & on the outside of the lug nut so it slides right in the wheel easy.
 


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For a shank style lug nut to function properly the wheel stud must be long enough to reach into the nut portion of the lug nut. If it's just in the shank portion then there's nothing holding the wheel to the car other than the thin 'wall' area of the shank. Threads are a natural stress point in metal as well as the relatively sharp inside corner where the nut meets the shank. That's why they break where you're describing when the stud isn't reaching into the nut.

I have never put a shank style wheel on my car so I have no first hand knowledge about your wheel/lug nut/lug stud combination. I'd personally check to see how much stud you have sticking out past the wheel and washer. The part sticking out should be equal to or more than the diameter of the stud. So.. a little more than a half inch at minimum.

Hope this helps. This sounds like potentially a very dangerous situation.
 


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I’ve snapped a Summit one , IMO they are no better. The shank design is just shithouse and a pain in the bum . I made a set of much better quality washers that don’t deform and get stuck which helps and take a box of spare bolts/ washers/ hub centric ring to the track . D1C31CA3-76B6-45BD-85EF-73DA6EC43937.png 2AEA8AB5-720F-44BF-B142-2466A4872365.jpeg
 


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AlleyCat

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Thread Starter #18
I did not realize the gorilla lug nuts were summits brand.
 


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1st post,,,,, get the nutt off the stud. Should have stopped right there and started back ass wards.
 


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#20
For a shank style lug nut to function properly the wheel stud must be long enough to reach into the nut portion of the lug nut. If it's just in the shank portion then there's nothing holding the wheel to the car other than the thin 'wall' area of the shank. Threads are a natural stress point in metal as well as the relatively sharp inside corner where the nut meets the shank. That's why they break where you're describing when the stud isn't reaching into the nut.

I have never put a shank style wheel on my car so I have no first hand knowledge about your wheel/lug nut/lug stud combination. I'd personally check to see how much stud you have sticking out past the wheel and washer. The part sticking out should be equal to or more than the diameter of the stud. So.. a little more than a half inch at minimum.

Hope this helps. This sounds like potentially a very dangerous situation.
Guys, Keep in mind thicker heavy duty washers actually make this problem worse. Longer studs are the only way to properly fix this dangerous situation.

66849355_10157571876098969_7368057503419990016_n.jpg
 


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