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rear bmr arms (info only)

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Bboyd

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#42
i have double adjustment and they are beefy, that's where i having trouble understanding where they are breaking! that's why we went with BMR cause they are adjustable! i don't know??? if we get to race this year we will see how they do!!
 


Hpindy

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#43
That's a good deal 4 sure !
guys by no means do I mean to make BMR look bad ,,,on a car with less power output the car may very well perform within its limits but apparently it with my increase in torque I can’t use them and being that somebody’s broke I just don’t feel comfortable selling something that could be questionable in its ability to handle higher horsepower demands and if your like me it seems I continue to add power
They would be ok with my V6 power levels

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk
 


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hellno

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Thread Starter #44
I installed the AAD arms tonight and I can tell you just do yourself a favor pay the extra money and get the AAD arms I’m telling you the other arms do not compare at all and the BMR arms honestly do look like a plumber made them and their design for pipe wrenches
 


Old Mopar Guy

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#45
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hellno

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Thread Starter #46
I’ll have to re-look at it in the morning but I do know the arms went in problem free they didn’t touch anything as for in the picture where he has the Allen wrench that bolt there you just loose and you don’t pull it all the way out ,, the bolt closer to the wheel you actually pull it out to change the shims so I don’t see that that would be an issue
I have adjustable swaybar links in the rear because I did the 15 inch conversion so I would be able to actually adjust mine upward if I wanted to to make more clearance for the swaybar
 


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#47
I’d like to score a set if the AAD’s down the road but need to be certain to avoid any issues. Thanks. Good luck with the set up. Lots of folks going with AAD so plenty of set up info coming. Thanks again.
 


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Thread Starter #48
Here’s a pic of the broken arms AD4F0B96-7BFB-4F57-B2C9-EF6AEBA0D681.jpeg BE9B53F9-5EC9-4517-A21D-4D3C9EA0CF43.jpeg 4B666585-D88C-4B68-B68B-6087D76630A9.jpeg
 


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#49

2fast4u

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#50
OK, from the above pic it looks like the adjustment rod broke, they must not be a high enough grade to handle the forces thrown at em.
 


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.. I called BMR yesterday and they did say some of there arms are 900 hp and less, and said the on car adjustable upper arms are the ones that brake. i have part numbers for those arms and also the ones they say are for above 900hp.. parts numbers are on my desk and i will post this evening the pics say it all, and the adjuster on that arm is what they said brakes and causes other shit to brake?? Thanks for the pics... that answers all the questions...
 


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#52
To me - there is only 2 options for this upgrade - Spohn up to 1000 hp & AAD over 1000 hp , period.
 


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#53

spazzman72

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#54
.. I called BMR yesterday and they did say some of there arms are 900 hp and less, and said the on car adjustable upper arms are the ones that brake. i have part numbers for those arms and also the ones they say are for above 900hp.. parts numbers are on my desk and i will post this evening the pics say it all, and the adjuster on that arm is what they said brakes and causes other shit to brake?? Thanks for the pics... that answers all the questions...
any info from BMR on what the single adjustable trailing arms are rated for ? i just installed a set on my ScatPack ...
thanks
 


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#55
So i called BMR back again and talked with Frank he is there mopar guy! ( nice guy). So the arm that hellno posted will be the third arm that has broke in same spot( adjuster) part number ( UTA 112) on car adjustable. UPPER TRAILER ARM... So BMR has rated this arm to 900 hp? i would say that if u make stock power u Should be ok with this arm.. On the street.. But Hp modes u should use a UTA 111 arm that has single adjustment, that would need removed from the car to adjust.. That would be when it is getting alignment! and its cheaper.. SO there is the skinny... if u guys take all ur BMR stuff and scrap it that's on u.. so we know the weak link now.. they also took care of the broken arm from above pics and he also went with UTA111 arm so all is good.. i also Have ordered the single adjustment arms.. And i also asked if they would join the forum..
 


Marc W

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#56
It’s a good to know that it’s that double adjuster that is the weak point and as long as you go with the single.... you’ll be ok because the rest of the arm is really strong. Oh wait! F6E03396-9F57-41B6-B5D5-42FD38805C76.jpeg
 


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#57
U can go with whatever u choose. I simply did the leg work and shared what I find with the form!
 


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#58
It’s a good to know that it’s that double adjuster that is the weak point and as long as you go with the single.... you’ll be ok because the rest of the arm is really strong. Oh wait! View attachment 17090
is this their V1 vsV2. I remember that their arm bent in V1.

I might be below 900 because I’ve been running V2 for 18 months and easily 100+ passes on it. I’ve cut 1.27 60’ , 1.29 60’ and countless 1.3x on it

Or may be they went back to cheaper material like V1 again?
 


Marc W

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#59
is this their V1 vsV2. I remember that their arm bent in V1.

I might be below 900 because I’ve been running V2 for 18 months and easily 100+ passes on it. I’ve cut 1.27 60’ , 1.29 60’ and countless 1.3x on it

Or may be they went back to cheaper material like V1 again?
Why are they naming their stuff after WW2 Nazi rockets? 😂. I do remember that after they had a issue a while back, they were going to increase the wall thickness on their tubing. I assume they did that (V1vsV2?). Anyway... they make some nice stuff. This whole conversation is just good to provide info for matching the parts you buy to your build. I’m sure Scats and moderately modded Hellcats have nothing to worry about. I have a set of their toe arms that I just took off and will be selling They have never had any issues with those as far as I know.
 




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