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Quickjack thoughts?

2ndAmend

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#21
Don't get me wrong, they do a good job, but there are many drawbacks, they are not a panacea. If you can get a lift, do it. These are an acceptable alternative when you have no other choice.

Do you get freezing temps in TN?
 


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#22
Don't get me wrong, they do a good job, but there are many drawbacks, they are not a panacea. If you can get a lift, do it. These are an acceptable alternative when you have no other choice.

Do you get freezing temps in TN?
I think they're great, just takes a few minutes to set up. But once the car is up it can stay there and go up and down between the settings as much as you want in seconds. We had 3 weeks with 12 or more hours a day of below freezing temps, never noticed any issues. I would use these over race ramps every day. Can't use race ramps if the car doesn't drive 🤣 (without jacking it up side by side)
 


Unholy707

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#23
Parking the car for the winter and don't want flat spots? Put it up on them
 


1971demon

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#24
If I had the room and overhead, I would.
But I don't, so these get the job done when space is at a premium.
Well not doin anything more than oil changes..detailing the underneath..and occasional tire removal..I have 2 lifts..a 2 post..and a cantilever single mast drive on...I double stack cars on both sides of my bldg.saves space..and come in handy in the event I have to do any work...
 


Unholy707

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#25
sorry for all of the posts, I'm just a believer in them. They've more than paid for themselves after a handful of uses
 


Hunter

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#26
@Speedy!
I believe the consensus is (by those who have them): it is a great tool if you don't have the room for a 2 / 4 post lift.
 


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#27
I've got the long version of the 7000, and it just barely is long enough for the Challenger.

.02, and only .02

(Clearly others are making other versions work)
 


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#28
I've got the long version of the 7000, and it just barely is long enough for the Challenger.

.02, and only .02

(Clearly others are making other versions work)
I have the long version as well, I removed the factory plastic lift posts in the back and use magnetic pucks on the pinch welds all the way around. They end up being maybe 2-3" in front of the pinch weld cutout in the rocker plastic
 


BULL

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#29
I'm going from the factory puck in the rear, to the pinch weld lined up with the cutout in the front with an adapter on the pinch weld. Just fits with very little to spare.
 


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#30
Quickjack is running a 20% off sale today only. I've looked at them a couple times, but being a cheap ass, just kept talking myself into just using my race ramps.
6000TLX is $1580 Thoughts?
That buys a decent 4-post.

If I had the room and overhead, I would..
Do you have a lot of low clouds, or what's limiting your vertical clearance? Yeah, I know, they're not necessarily supposed to be outside, but my cheapy has lived in the great outdoors for at least eight years now.
 


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#31
I'm going from the factory puck in the rear, to the pinch weld lined up with the cutout in the front with an adapter on the pinch weld. Just fits with very little to spare.
With the frames angled outboard toward front?
 


OP
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Thread Starter #32
I built my shop to support a 2 post 10 years ago and honestly have never needed it so never got one.

4 post takes up too much space and I never really saw the point vs 2 post.

I'm probably past building cars and engine swaps so thought this might make general maintenance easier, but Race Ramps have been getting it done nol problemo.
 


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#33
4 post takes up too much space and I never really saw the point vs 2 post..
I use the 4-post well over 10 to one, but part of that is that I prefer working outside. Also, it takes a bit of time to position the arms of the 2-post.
 


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#34
With the frames angled outboard toward front?


I can't quite picture it at the moment, but at some point I was putzing around and looked at the directions that are right on the labels on the frame and realized that I've been using them backwards for a very long time.

I went to try and lift my truck with them oriented the "correct" way and they wouldn't pick the truck up high enough to get the suspension off of the ground...

Flipped them back around and they worked fine...


So two things, WHY would orientation make a difference on lift height??? :oops::unsure:


And while I suspect the load rating is based on the "correct" orientation, I had been doing it for so long when I realized that I had them "backwards", I just kept going and ignore the labeling...


Don't do what I do, it will kill you...


:eek:
 


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#35
I bought and installed an Amgo 9K lift for $2989 tax and delivered to a hub close by where I picked it up since a trailer wouldn't be able to get in and out of my place. Set up was fairly easy. I used an engine hoist and straps to lift the columns, had some help on the ladder work from a friend and the extra precautions I got talked into (chained to the floor, overhead brace) but better safe than sorry. That lift isn't going anywhere. Wiring wasn't complicated at all if you can read instructions. If my old handicapped as$$ can do it @Speedy! can surely do it. The best 3G I spent in my life.
IMG_7418.jpg
 


DGatzby

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#36
I like mine. It has been up all season. That is the lower height. All detailed and checked under, oil changed. Ready to get the wheels and tires on later next week and lowered to the floor - ready to go.
View attachment IMG_3062.jpeg
IMG_3261.png
I recommend the hangers. You want to be in good shape and use good technique to lift them up onto the hooks. ;)
 


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#37
I can't quite picture it at the moment, but at some point I was putzing around and looked at the directions that are right on the labels on the frame and realized that I've been using them backwards for a very long time.

I went to try and lift my truck with them oriented the "correct" way and they wouldn't pick the truck up high enough to get the suspension off of the ground...

Flipped them back around and they worked fine...


So two things, WHY would orientation make a difference on lift height??? :oops::unsure:


And while I suspect the load rating is based on the "correct" orientation, I had been doing it for so long when I realized that I had them "backwards", I just kept going and ignore the labeling...


Don't do what I do, it will kill you...


:eek:
Huh? I think they are reverse from what I usually do this year, in my picture above. It is because as it jacks up I want it closer to the door is all this year.. Never seen or had a problem either way.
 


1971demon

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#38
I bought and installed an Amgo 9K lift for $2989 tax and delivered to a hub close by where I picked it up since a trailer wouldn't be able to get in and out of my place. Set up was fairly easy. I used an engine hoist and straps to lift the columns, had some help on the ladder work from a friend and the extra precautions I got talked into (chained to the floor, overhead brace) but better safe than sorry. That lift isn't going anywhere. Wiring wasn't complicated at all if you can read instructions. If my old handicapped as$$ can do it @Speedy! can surely do it. The best 3G I spent in my life.
View attachment 177611
Very nice ..(and safe)...but what's the excuse for the filthy car...[bath][dunno]
 


Felt

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#39
Very nice ..(and safe)...but what's the excuse for the filthy car...[bath][dunno]
I know, I know it's on the list!!
 


BULL

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#40
Huh? I think they are reverse from what I usually do this year, in my picture above. It is because as it jacks up I want it closer to the door is all this year.. Never seen or had a problem either way.

If you go through the various pictures that people have posted, the main legs are either tilted "forward" (pointing at engine), or tilted "backwards" (pointed towards the trunk).

I use my (usually) tilted backwards, which is wrong according to this....


See how the main legs are tilted "forward"...


"USE ONLY AS ILLUSTRATED"



Oops...




20260220_212628.jpg
 




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