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Storing car on Quickjacks over the winter.

Old Mopar Guy

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#1
So for the last 2 seasons I’ve stored my car on the Quickjacks with no issues as far as I can tell. We had family over yesterday and my uncle, an old time car guy, said storing the car for a few months with the suspension sagging to full drop is not a good idea. I had always heard that, but never had an issue. I can drop it down to to put some compression on the suspension, but can’t safely lock the jacks, depending entirely on hydraulic pressure to hold the car up, which probably not so good. Thoughts please…
 


Hunter

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#2
So for the last 2 seasons I’ve stored my car on the Quickjacks with no issues as far as I can tell. We had family over yesterday and my uncle, an old time car guy, said storing the car for a few months with the suspension sagging to full drop is not a good idea. I had always heard that, but never had an issue. I can drop it down to to put some compression on the suspension, but can’t safely lock the jacks, depending entirely on hydraulic pressure to hold the car up, which probably not so good. Thoughts please…
Raise jacks to highest, block under tires, then drop jacks to locking point.
Do not trust hydraulic/ hoses.
Some members have had issues with them leaking.
 


vortecd

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#3
From what was said to do in 1980 to now a lot has changed. I have been doing the KISS method for over 20 years. I try to run the tank about empty because there is a good chance the fuel will lose octane sitting all winter so if you fill it you have a tank of junk gas you have to burn out. I also take the battery out of the car and bring it in the house. Cold weather wreaks havoc on a battery. Having tires filled to 40psi or so isn't a bad idea but I know I don't always do that. That is it
 


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Old Mopar Guy

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Thread Starter #4
Raise jacks to highest, block under tires, then drop jacks to locking point.
Do not trust hydraulic/ hoses.
Some members have had issues with them leaking.
I don’t have blocks and I do recall a few guys having issues with couplings leaking. So then Hunter, you’re in the don’t let the suspension sit at full droop camp?
 


Hunter

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#5
I don’t have blocks and I do recall a few guys having issues with couplings leaking. So then Hunter, you’re in the don’t let the suspension sit at full droop camp?
Not sure if it would hurt or not, but taking some of the weight off "the full droop" would relieve some of the pressure off the bushings, wouldn't it?
 


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Thread Starter #6
^ And struts too.
 


BULL

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#7
I've had mine throw codes after being up on my Quickjack, but I also was doing things with the ignition and/or independently blocking wheels for various suspension bolt removal reasons. B11 if I recall correctly, clears out just fine.

Never had an issue just raising and then lowering.

And I'm not aware of a mechanical issue, only software under certain conditions (not saying that there couldn't be an issue??)
 


BULL

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I saw the pics you posted, that looks like the shorter 5000 series lift.

Maybe, maybe not a real issue, but I got the longer 7000 series lift for as much reason as to be able to reach further out along the unibody and better distribute the load.

Not much option for you other than upgrading, but just food for thought.
 


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... to be able to reach further out along the unibody and better distribute the load.
That would be my main concern. The car was built to be supported by the tires, not closer to the center.
Temporarily lifting it up to work on it won't make it go bananas (so to speak), but over time I'd think it could deform a bit.
 


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Thread Starter #10
No Bull, it’s the 7000tlx I believe. I went with the heavier duty unit. I position it biased towards the front.
 


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#11
From what was said to do in 1980 to now a lot has changed. I have been doing the KISS method for over 20 years. I try to run the tank about empty because there is a good chance the fuel will lose octane sitting all winter so if you fill it you have a tank of junk gas you have to burn out. I also take the battery out of the car and bring it in the house. Cold weather wreaks havoc on a battery. Having tires filled to 40psi or so isn't a bad idea but I know I don't always do that. That is it
Didn't know it looses octane...
 


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#12
It does.
 


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#13
Didn't know it looses octane...
I bought race gas years ago that was in plastic containers. I blew head gaskets a couple of times with it. Bought some gas that was in a drum and no issues. I always questioned fuel stored in plastic for awhile.
 


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#14
When I was younger (under 65) I was OC. Now, every day I tell myself “don’t over think it”. It is shocking how well things come out even under the worst circumstances.

If you keep your car for 30 years and never do anything to mitigate storage problems, I’ll bet you will never know the difference. And if you did, spending a few $ on parts at that point probably will not bother you, and it might even entertain you to do some maintenance. :)

If you race, just run out the old gas before going to the track. :)
 


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#15
I bought race gas years ago that was in plastic containers. I blew head gaskets a couple of times with it. Bought some gas that was in a drum and no issues. I always questioned fuel stored in plastic for awhile.
The key to keep it usable longer is well sealed containers, regardless of the material. But gas with ethanol can still stratify over time if not treated.
 


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#16
I can’t think of a benefit of storing it in the air other than potentially avoiding flat spotting the tires.
If you were to buy new suspension components… are they snugged up with a strap or full droop?
 


1971demon

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#17
I can’t think of a benefit of storing it in the air other than potentially avoiding flat spotting the tires.
If you were to buy new suspension components… are they snugged up with a strap or full droop?
For the past 5 years I have been storing my Viper on my 2 post lift...with my HC underneath...never had an issue...
 


Jack_Toepfer

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#18
For the past 5 years I have been storing my Viper on my 2 post lift...with my HC underneath...never had an issue...
You’re not alone. A lot of “projects” don’t touch the ground for years, lol.
 


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#19
So if a spring is extended versus compressed, for a few weeks or months, some believe they deform? Would this potential deformation be better extended? Rather than compressing it forever? I would rather my springs are in the extended position rather than compressing it myself.

If a bushing is in a #1 position versus a #2 position, it matters? The shock absorber is not working regardless if it is compressed or extended for storage.
 


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#20
Re: storing gas

is it ok to store E85 (E75 as tested) over the winter in plastic race jugs? or should I give it to a flexfuel driver and get new in the spring?
 




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