Piston opinions.

[white1]

Currently checking out the diamond 53240-RS-8 they haven’t updated their pricing on the site but my cost is about $100 more than their advertised msrp 🤣 they do come with upgraded tool steel wrist pins
Also considering the Manley 597905C from HHP but I’m not sure the difference between the regular and “extreme” version
Would also be open to a CP, JE, Weisco or Mahle just not coming up with many options for 4.090-4.100 bore sizes.
the block is at the machine shop I believe we can hone it but I want to make sure we don’t need to bore before purchasing. I did find one place selling the diamonds for just under $1100 and the h13 wrist pin is a little piece of mind, but if the Manley 597905c is sufficient I can have rods, pistons and bearings for less than just the diamond pistons and bearings.
I don’t mind spending the extra money but if it’s not worth it, I can surely find something else to spend it on.
Doing heads and cam while it’s down and looking for roughly 1000-1050 whp blower only then possibly some dope in a stand alone setup beyond that.
Looking for opinions/suggestions thanks

 

[Hickster]

You got my prayers. Not that the Mopar gods listen any moe.

 

[BULL]

Check with @16GoManGoHC2 on his thoughts

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Check with @16GoManGoHC2 on his thoughts

All brands listed are good brands, it all depends on how long you want it to last and what your willing to spend and if you want to wait on a custom piston. My Wiseco pistons with .250 wall H13 DLC coated pins where almost 2500$ But they have all the options, hard anodized tops, ring grooves, and pin bores; PTFE impregnated skirts and underside, dual pin oiling, etc. I thought about using off off the shelf Diamonds but after seeing a few not last long in in the pin and ring areas on engine tear downs I’ve seen pictures of and their customer service and warranty suck no way was I using them. Tom at Wiseco helped me develop a custom piston and they where a pleasure to work with and told me any issues with them for 2 years they’ll make them for me again free the first year 50% off the second. They look and so far have been working the part. They endure 1000 wheel and look new yet, They’ll be seeing some spray soon and I have no worries of over stressing them, except for detonation which no piston can survive long under they’ll take more then the rod and bottom end will stand up too.

 

[fumanchu182]

My friends Manley rods and pistons windowed his BGE. Rod became a sawblade in the block and it was devastating. Can't really vouch for other brands.

 

[white1]

All brands listed are good brands, it all depends on how long you want it to last and what your willing to spend and if you want to wait on a custom piston. My Wiseco pistons with .250 wall H13 DLC coated pins where almost 2500$ But they have all the options, hard anodized tops, ring grooves, and pin bores; PTFE impregnated skirts and underside, dual pin oiling, etc. I thought about using off off the shelf Diamonds but after seeing a few not last long in in the pin and ring areas on engine tear downs I’ve seen pictures of and their customer service and warranty suck no way was I using them. Tom at Wiseco helped me develop a custom piston and they where a pleasure to work with and told me any issues with them for 2 years they’ll make them for me again free the first year 50% off the second. They look and so far have been working the part. They endure 1000 wheel and look new yet, They’ll be seeing some spray soon and I have no worries of over stressing them, except for detonation which no piston can survive long under they’ll take more then the rod and bottom end will stand up too.

View attachment 68457 View attachment 68458 View attachment 68459

Well I had decided to bite the bullet and get the new diamond hemi2k
But now you have me possibly reconsidering I wasn’t happy at the $1200 price tag for pistons alone but after the wrist pin upgrade they aren’t all that much more expensive than some of the others.

 

[MiHiHemi]

I went the thin ring piston route in an attempt to keep the friction losses as low as possible...albeit minimal contribution, every bit helps.

 

[GNBRETT]

Building a 426 stroker now and using Diamond 2k pistons, Boostline rods from Wiseco and a Callies crank. 2k's is what I would recommend. They are badass!

 

[white1]

Building a 426 stroker now and using Diamond 2k pistons, Boostline rods from Wiseco and a Callies crank. 2k's is what I would recommend. They are badass!

I think thats what Im leaning towards is the hemi2K from Diamond

 

[oilburner]

All brands listed are good brands, it all depends on how long you want it to last and what your willing to spend and if you want to wait on a custom piston. My Wiseco pistons with .250 wall H13 DLC coated pins where almost 2500$ But they have all the options, hard anodized tops, ring grooves, and pin bores; PTFE impregnated skirts and underside, dual pin oiling, etc. I thought about using off off the shelf Diamonds but after seeing a few not last long in in the pin and ring areas on engine tear downs I’ve seen pictures of and their customer service and warranty suck no way was I using them. Tom at Wiseco helped me develop a custom piston and they where a pleasure to work with and told me any issues with them for 2 years they’ll make them for me again free the first year 50% off the second. They look and so far have been working the part. They endure 1000 wheel and look new yet, They’ll be seeing some spray soon and I have no worries of over stressing them, except for detonation which no piston can survive long under they’ll take more then the rod and bottom end will stand up too.

View attachment 68457 View attachment 68458 View attachment 68459

I ordered wiseco for my build an should be here this week, 13 weeks so far.
I`m sure they will be worth the wait.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

I ordered wiseco for my build an should be here this week, 13 weeks so far.
I`m sure they will be worth the wait.

Nice!! No issues with mine, finish, weights, and fit where perfect. A custom or off the shelf offering? I paid an expedite fee to get my customs in 8 weeks but I’ve heard they where so far behind they may have stoped offering it? Post picks for sure please!! LOVE to see what you got!!

 

[oilburner]

Nice!! No issues with mine, finish, weights, and fit where perfect. A custom or off the shelf offering? I paid an expedite fee to get my customs in 8 weeks but I’ve heard they where so far behind they may have stoped offering it? Post picks for sure please!! LOVE to see what you got!!

custom pistons an yes I will post pics.
up here you can`t deal direct with wiseco you have to go through wiseco Canada an I`m sure this adds time to the whole procedure.

 

[Marc W]

My engine is over two years now and made 1202whp at 7000rpm thru a power sucking T400 and 9”diff on 315-15 Radial Pros. Just guessing but thru a hp90, stock diff and street tires, that would have been in the 1350whp balllark. Watson computer conversion says the recorded performance at 4500 lbs indicates 1480hp at the flywheel. Pistons are custom hard coated Diamonds (4.0945). Manley I-Beam Pro series forged rods (6.125). Crank is the Molnar 8 counter weight Billet (4.050). I shift at 7000 but she’s been to the 7500 limiter more than once. No problem so far. 🤞

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

View attachment 68712 View attachment 68713 View attachment 68714 My engine is over two years now and made 1202whp at 7000rpm thru a power sucking T400 and 9”diff on 315-15 Radial Pros. Just guessing but thru a hp90, stock diff and street tires, that would have been in the 1350whp balllark. Watson computer conversion says the recorded performance at 4500 lbs indicates 1480hp at the flywheel. Pistons are custom hard coated Diamonds (4.0945). Manley I-Beam Pro series forged rods (6.125). Crank is the Molnar 8 counter weight Billet (4.050). I shift at 7000 but she’s been to the 7500 limiter more than once. No problem so far. 🤞

NICE!! Looks like you have billet main caps too ??

When putting your oil pan on the inside of the pan hits the nuts on #5 main cap (dud on mine at least) to where the pan would not move forward enough to be flush with the back of the block. I had to relieve the pan with bur to make room for them. You run into this same issue?



I didn’t notice this until after the engine was in the bay and getting ready to mate the transmission, was a real PITA to remedy in place, Would have been much easier to remedy while the engine was still on the engine stand.

 

[white1]

NICE!! Looks like you have billet main caps too ??

When putting your oil pan on the inside of the pan hits the nuts on #5 main cap (dud on mine at least) to where the pan would not move forward enough to be flush with the back of the block. I had to relieve the pan with bur to make room for them. You run into this same issue?
View attachment 68730 View attachment 68731 View attachment 68732
View attachment 68733

I didn’t notice this until after the engine was in the bay and getting ready to mate the transmission, was a real PITA to remedy in place, Would have been much easier to remedy while the engine was still on the engine stand.

Was this due to the nuts on the ARP hardware? Either way, thanks for mentioning this. Ill make sure to check mine before things go in place

 

[Marc W]

NICE!! Looks like you have billet main caps too ??

When putting your oil pan on the inside of the pan hits the nuts on #5 main cap (dud on mine at least) to where the pan would not move forward enough to be flush with the back of the block. I had to relieve the pan with bur to make room for them. You run into this same issue?
View attachment 68730 View attachment 68731 View attachment 68732
View attachment 68733

I didn’t notice this until after the engine was in the bay and getting ready to mate the transmission, was a real PITA to remedy in place, Would have been much easier to remedy while the engine was still on the engine stand.

My main caps are Pro Gram Billet with ARP’s. Maybe different caps could cause that issue? I did not have that problem.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Was this due to the nuts on the ARP hardware? Either way, thanks for mentioning this. Ill make sure to check mine before things go in place

Yes, zoom in on first picture, see the aluminum mashed into the nuts? That’s from the oil pan hitting it.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

My main caps are Pro Gram Billet with ARP’s. Maybe different caps could cause that issue? I did not have that problem.

Mine where stock caps. If the caps have the same height it puts the nut in the same place. The pan went on fine, I would not have noticed this except for when I put my new steel scatter shield bell housing on and checked run out with a dial indicator it was on center but not parallel to the block. Further investigation found out why, oil pan was not flush with the block. Most would never notice this, but I bet it’s an issue on every build done using studs with nuts and not relieving the pan for the nuts. The bell would have mounted and trans stabbed most likely. It would have just produced a misalignment and possible shifting issues. With an auto it would cause a miss alignment at well but the flex plate would help it not be as much of an issue but still not good for the trans either variety. I bet if you check with a flashlight you may find a gap between trans bell, auto or manual, in the same area as shown with a straight edge in picture 2. If those caps are meatier and higher the issue will be even worse as pan is tapered inside and the higher the nuts are the more they interfere with the pan.



There was no flexing this 3/8” thick spun steel bell, an aluminum one may be.

 

[Marc W]

I will have the pan off soon. We are replacing it with a rear sump pan and I’ll take a look to see if there has been any contact there and if that needs to be a consideration with the new one. Thanks.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

I will have the pan off soon. We are replacing it with a rear sump pan and I’ll take a look to see if there has been any contact there and if that needs to be a consideration with the new one. Thanks.

If it was tightened down and then the transmission bolted to it you’re probably not going to see any rub marks on the nuts themselves, you’ll have to use a straight edge on the back of the block and check everything to be sure it’s all flush, the back of the block, the rear main seal, and the oil pan should all be flush