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Looks like Go Man Go was good this year :)

Speedy!

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#1
Merry Christmas everyone. Hope you and your families all had great ones!

 


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Merry Christmas. Now that you upgrade to AAD.

We see a 15" conversion in your future :) Thus stopping your spinning problems. lol
 


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#3
Merry Christmas. I did the trailing arms on my Redeye and that are great.
 


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Not a hard install at all, did mine in about 4 hours and I’m old😂
 


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Speedy!

Speedy!

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Thread Starter #5
@jgilj did you find the #2 tabs were stock settings on alignment?
 


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@jgilj did you find the #2 tabs were stock settings on alignment?
Hi Jay l haven’t had it lined up yet , it’s scheduled for after the first of the year. Sorry
 


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#7
Merry Christmas everyone. Hope you and your families all had great ones!

Merry Christmas @Speedy! , Nice gift for Go Man Go, interested to see how they help at the track & the ride quality on the street, normally it'll be a harder or harsher ride on the street ? ... are the bushings polyurethane or Delrin ?
 


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#8
@jgilj did you find the #2 tabs were stock settings on alignment?
That is a good place to start on the camber arms @Speedy!. Somewhere between 2-4mm seems to get them nearly flat on the ground. THEN, check those toe settings! I had to have them make me a couple of half degree tabs for the toe arms, but I am being real specific about getting that also near zero. Also a tip my friend, it seems to run the street just fine with the settings everyone likes for the strip. I think Zach sends the set with the recommended tabs installed, so do take note before you change any of them. Have fun, when your ready to change the tabs, on the car, I have some pointers to move the arms around to perform that little trick.

Merry Christmas.
 


DGatzby

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Merry Christmas @Speedy! , Nice gift for Go Man Go, interested to see how they help at the track & the ride quality on the street, normally it'll be a harder or harsher ride on the street ? ... are the bushings polyurethane or Delrin ?
IMO BETTER ride on the street over the stock arms/bushings! NOT more harsh for sure. Definite loss of most of the wheel hop. These and new cradle bushings and you really must try hard to hop. What you drag racers like is what us road racers like, these firm up the static camber and toe settings under power. From the look of the rear tires, before and after using these products, it is quite amazing.
 


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Good job Speedy. I’ve been running these for a while now with good results. It took a fair amount of fiddling to get the alignment where I ended up but it’s good now. The camber adjustment was easy and I got there with just a couple swings at it. I ended up reducing my camber from a positive .6 degrees to positive .3 degrees. My car is making so much power now that as the positive camber returned down track, it was loosing traction past the 100 mph mark. Rather than going back to a zero setting that would go negative on the launch, I split the difference and I’ve been happy with that. The harder adjustment to get figured out has been the toe. I suggest a zero or slightly negative (toe in) for stability. I ran the car with more toe in than I wanted (got the math wrong) and it was fine. Took a swing the other way and ended up slightly out and it was not stable with the rear feeling loose down track. Whatever you do... don’t end up with one in and the other out!! That would be courting disaster. I ended up needing to order additional tabs to get what I wanted. I don’t know how much variance there is from one cradle to the next, so what works in one car might not on another. I ended up marking the tabs for easy ID instead of having to pull out the secret code tab sheet every time. I ended up with +1’s in my toe arms. E8C0F5E2-F47D-4554-A7E2-C06DC9F190F7.jpeg
 


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I ended up with...I THINK 6's in one side and 7's in the other (or 7 & 8. Cant remember) to get as close to 0 camber as possible (0.0 R and -0.1 L IIRC) and used factory toe rods adjusted to -0.05 toe L & R and 0.0 thrust angle as a result. A good starting point but I'll need to play with it next year.

The AAD stuff is real nice.

EDIT: found the email. #6's in the right arms and #7's in the left.
 


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fubar569

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I suggest a zero or slightly negative (toe in) for stability. I ran the car with more toe in than I wanted (got the math wrong) and it was fine. Took a swing the other way and ended up slightly out and it was not stable with the rear feeling loose down track. Whatever you do... don’t end up with one in and the other out!! That would be courting disaster.
Most describe a negative toe as toe out...with positive being toe in.

Just making sure which direction is which...because if that is the case...at -0.05 toe right now...I should actually be at +0.05 to achieve a toe in state.

This could also explain some of the behavior experienced at the top end...which was DRASTICALLY improved just getting the thrust angle and toe much closer to zero.
 


Marc W

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Most describe a negative toe as toe out...with positive being toe in.

Just making sure which direction is which...because if that is the case...at -0.05 toe right now...I should actually be at +0.05 to achieve a toe in state.

This could also explain some of the behavior experienced at the top end...which was DRASTICALLY improved just getting the thrust angle and toe much closer to zero.
That could be the case. Top out is positive with camber I usually just refer to toe as in or out. The alignment equipment that I was on didn’t even use degrees to measure toe like it did camber. That was one of the confusing things figuring which way I was going with the tabs on the toe settings. My experience was that “in” was more stable going down track than “out”. Zero is desirable but if you can’t get it exact, best to be in rather than out. I ended up with +1mm tabs in my toe arms and -6mm tabs in my upper arms for camber. I have no idea if those would even be close on somebody else’s car. Two big notches on the long side means -6mm in secret AAD code. BB2220A6-BD21-46E6-91A6-0B939B5C449A.jpeg 4E357E4C-49FB-4C07-90B8-EDE939E7DE0F.jpeg
 


fubar569

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#14
As an addendum to that graphic...in the product description:

Adjustment tabs for our control arms. Please reference the chart when ordering, as this chart may be labeled opposite the polarity (+/-) what your arms might adjust. Current (since 2018) rears and all AAD branded front control arms are opposite (notches on the long side make the tabs longer, e.g. camber more positive). Tabs are sold in sets of 8, are 304 stainless, and should fit all arms manufactured by All Angles Designs / Bender Services Inc since 2012

So for most of us...long side = longer arm...so that 2 big notches would be +6mm over factory...which makes sense going from negative to zero and into positive requires a longer arm.
 


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Yep, the toe is the tough one to dial in. I’ll confirm with the toe pointing out no matter how you measure it, it is not stable at high speeds. It will coast, but under power, it is stupid twitchy. Agree get it zero or pointing in. My toe arms need in the +2.5 to 3.5 mm range. They sent them to me when I needed to park it. I am looking forward to the 1/2 mm tabs because the toe is real sensitive to changes. Like was said above, I could measure it myself, but it is real close now and I want them to check the difference left and right to make sure it is lined up.
 


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Here’s a print how I set mine. The .5 plus camber on the DS goes down to plus .3 to match passenger side with me in it. This is with a full tank of fuel as well. I’ve had it up in the 170’s since and it tracks well and isn’t twitchy at all. I can recommend these settings as well. AB2EF306-1D5B-4B75-AD66-1E7AFF391B22.jpeg
 


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Speedy!

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Thread Starter #17
That is a good place to start on the camber arms @Speedy!. Have fun, when your ready to change the tabs, on the car, I have some pointers to move the arms around to perform that little trick.
Ok, I'm ready, what's the trick? :cool:
 


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I know that aside from the shorter Allen key trick that I had no issues changing tabs on the car. Very easy actually since they're only moving about .2 degrees per click.

Setting the initial though on first install? That was a behotch. It was such a radical change it took forever to get the bolts lined up.
 


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Speedy!

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Thread Starter #19
I'm suspecting it has something to do with moving the arms in and out.
 


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Ok, I'm ready, what's the trick? :cool:
I am sure and have watched your mechanical talents, your good. But when attempting to move the arms and change a tab a couple of things to suggest.

1. When you place a new tab in the slot, it needs something to hold it in while we adjust the arms in order to get the bolt into the new set of holes. Otherwise they will drop to the floor or worse in between the damn lower shock mount! I place the tab in its spot, then cut a piece of blue paint tape. Then tape it in its spot, leaving the hole free obviously.
2. To move them around I use a variety of short rods/punches through the holes, then just use the rod or punch as a pilot and wiggle the arms into position to get the bolt back in. It’s tough from the side of the shock sometimes, so be patient.
3. Just loosen the “other” bolt without the tab on the same arm. Sometimes, I’ll make that one just snug enough to keep the arm in position as I am jockeying with the holes, otherwise sometimes they won’t stay where you want them to before the bolt is inserted again.
4. I also will not tighten either of the top arms while adjusting. It seems if you do, that would interfere with the other arm’s movement.

Of course, do the camber first, then the toe. Camber affects toe, toe don’t affect camber.

Sometimes it is smooth and not a problem, and I feel like a genius. Sometimes, I have wanted to sledgehammer the wheel! But, with refining my technique it got better. Now, after I final set my toe, I am not touching the rear end again! It will be good for anything IMO just set flat and square. Have fun @Speedy!
 




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