AAD rear upper arms install

[vortecd]

Today I installed the 4 upper arms. I did put the number 4 tabs in to start off with (2 are what they come with) being many have used 4-7. I already have the trailing arms installed and being the factory toe arms are adjustable I don't think I will add those. Do one side at a time. Only things I unhooked were the brake cable on the body, the lower shock bolt and the sway bar links. I did the sway bar so I could rotate it for more room if I needed to so the links for the sway bar you do need to do both sides from the start. I placed a jack under the cradle by the exhaust. Take out both cradle bolts on the side you are working on then lower the jack. I do have cradle lockouts installed so the ones on the other side may have not let it drop as far. The front upper bolt was close to coming out but I did have to use a pry bar to lower the front maybe an inch to get the bolt out. Could also be the Chargers and Challengers are different in that area. Once the arms are swapped out jack it up and install the cradle bolts. Move to the other side and do the same thing. Also by doing a side at a time you can look to other side if you are not sure which way the bolts go. I had to jack up each arm to get the shock bolt and sway bar bolts back in

I was working pretty slow and it took around 3 hours. If you were to install the trailing arms and toe arms add another hour to 90 minutes. You could also drop some time if you had someone helping but I wanted to see how hard it would be doing it myself

This is the video I followed. (he did put the bolt on backwards on the center bar on the outside. The nut should be on the back not the front like the front arm)

Speedy also has a video that may help

 

[vortecd]

If you were to change rear springs, this may be the easiest way to do it. Brake cable bolt, shock bolt and cradle bolts on one side you should be able to get the spring out

 

[vortecd]

I started with the 4 tabs and this is what I got. One thing I did think about and did prove out was weight in the car. I was in the ballpark at a 1/2 tank based on where I would normally run the car. I went to the gas station and added 7 gallons when I was done. I noticed my steering wheel was off so I went back so they could fix it. I didn't get a print out then but my left front went from -2.6 to -1.7 so @Speedy! if you went back in again your right which was at -2.4 may have changed. Car has around 3/4 of a tank and the camber had moved to -.3. So I do think it is important to go in with how much gas will be in the tank when you go to the track. @fubar569 said each tab is around .20? Being my next tab is a 6 it looks like I need a 5. I will go back in after I change the tab and have it checked. It is free to check it

 

[DGatzby]

I like your rear placements.

Did you buy the FRONT AAD adjustable arms? If so, I would want those two camber readings closer on each side. IMO that don’t matter as much as toe for tire wear. Either they both need to be -2.x or closer or at about -1.0 degree which is about in the center of the MOPAR recommendations. I keep mine full negative camber even in the street. Your toe setting up front is nearly perfect. That is right where my toe is, and my tire edge wear is minimal compared with the balance of the surface. Even with track duty!!

Here, this is how retarded max camber in the front looks compared with a rear that is basically straight up like you drag racers like. I have found for traction, wear and handling, especially with the steam rollers, that works best for both street and track for me too. Track for me is road course duty.

 

[fubar569]

I started with the 4 tabs and this is what I got. One thing I did think about and did prove out was weight in the car. I was in the ballpark at a 1/2 tank based on where I would normally run the car. I went to the gas station and added 7 gallons when I was done. I noticed my steering wheel was off so I went back so they could fix it. I didn't get a print out then but my left front went from -2.6 to -1.7 so @Speedy! if you went back in again your right which was at -2.4 may have changed. Car has around 3/4 of a tank and the camber had moved to -.3. So I do think it is important to go in with how much gas will be in the tank when you go to the track. @fubar569 said each tab is around .20? Being my next tab is a 6 it looks like I need a 5. I will go back in after I change the tab and have it checked. It is free to check it

View attachment 72595

Just checked to be sure and the email actually states that each tab increment is roughly .24 degrees more positive...so if you have 4's in the right rear arms right now you could probably get away with the 6's and be 0.0/0.0 L to R or VERY close to it.

 

[vortecd]

Just checked to be sure and the email actually states that each tab increment is roughly .24 degrees more positive...so if you have 4's in the right rear arms right now you could probably get away with the 6's and be 0.0/0.0 L to R or VERY close to it.

I'm .0 and -.05 so I thought 5s would put me at .20 .15 ? Jon only had 2 5s. The instructions say you can make most adjustments with the long arm so was thinking on putting the 5s in there and leaving the 4s in the front arm

 

[vortecd]

I brought Jons new rear wheel setup home. 315 on forgestars so I can get them to fit this weekend. My 315's will not be mounted up until Monday

 

[fubar569]

I'm .0 and -.05 so I thought 5s would put me at .20 .15 ? Jon only had 2 5s. The instructions say you can make most adjustments with the long arm so was thinking on putting the 5s in there and leaving the 4s in the front arm

Current measurements for rear camber look like 0.0 on the left and -0.5 on the right?

If that is accurate you could step up to 6's on the right only and be pretty much zeroed out at race weight. That would be a good place to be.

If you are 0.0 and 0.05 I would leave that alone and send it.

 

[DGatzby]

REMEMBER, this is especially important— check your toe setting after ANY tab change on any of the four lateral “upper” arms. It will change and that is the item that will make that Hellcat get goofy at left and right lurching under power.

Current measurements for rear camber look like 0.0 on the left and -0.5 on the right?

If that is accurate you could step up to 6's on the right only and be pretty much zeroed out at race weight. That would be a good place to be.

If you are 0.0 and 0.05 I would leave that alone and send it.

He may have an identical setup to mine. 6mm right, 4mm left—-returns as near straight up camber as I can get.

 

[Old Mopar Guy]

He may have an identical setup to mine. 6mm right, 4mm left—-returns as near straight up camber as I can get.

Same as I have as well, with +.5 on that bottom toe arm link.

 

[vortecd]

Current measurements for rear camber look like 0.0 on the left and -0.5 on the right?

If that is accurate you could step up to 6's on the right only and be pretty much zeroed out at race weight. That would be a good place to be.

If you are 0.0 and 0.05 I would leave that alone and send it.

I was thinking .05 in my head not .5

Car was close to race weight but I was not sitting in it so that may even it up

 

[vortecd]

May just need to run it like this and see what happens. The tires should help a lot also.

I can also go back in with me in the car and recheck it with gas close

 

[DGatzby]

Even a half degree. Run it!

 

[Speedy!]

I went for +.25 deg camber on mine...slightly positive to account for me in the car plus squat at launch. Final was +.3 and +.1.

Tech told me even setting an ink pen on the tire would chang it when you get to 1/10 of a degree 🤷‍♂️

 

[vortecd]

I sent AAD and email and Parker responded. He said to go +1 more on the driver side and +3 on the passenger side which would be +5 and +7. I'm going to order them and in the mean time throw the +6 in the passenger side so I will be +4 and +6

Have a TNT Friday if rain does not ruin our day again

 

[vortecd]

Parker also said each tab will move it .25 degrees

 

[Speedy!]

.25 for camber....can't remember if toe links are the same?

 

[vortecd]

.25 for camber....can't remember if toe links are the same?

Yep camber. I don't have the toe links so we didn't talk about that

 

[DGatzby]

The toe is another story and no the tabs don’t move the toe 25 or even 0.25 degrees. But it is tricky! I had to order supplemental toe tabs to get it dialed in to near zero on mine. Reading in my notes it took 2.5mm tabs to finally get everything right for toe. Reviewing it reminded me every time you change one of those top arm camber tabs it will screw the pooch and throw off the toe.

 

[vortecd]

The toe is another story and no the tabs don’t move the toe 25 or even 0.25 degrees. But it is tricky! I had to order supplemental toe tabs to get it dialed in to near zero on mine. Reading in my notes it took 2.5mm tabs to finally get everything right for toe. Reviewing it reminded me every time you change one of those top arm camber tabs it will screw the pooch and throw off the toe.

After I get the 5s and 7s in I was planning on checking it so we will see how much the toe moved