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60ft Help

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#1
Forum, looking for some help with my 60ft. Currently have a great tune by Curt on E85, and last time at the track 2020, 9.89 @ 142.78, 1.589 60ft. The issue is picking up some bad wheel hop.

Tires are MT ET Street R, 315 / 50 / 17, was running 18PSI still some violent wheel hop. 3.09 rear, BMR trailing arms, diff brace.

Just relocated to the Mesa, AZ so looking to hit the track in two weeks.

Some feedback would be appreciated.
 


Last edited:

Markp

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#2
What’s your 60ft?

A trick I use is the one-two or tap smash as @Linda's Hell Cat calls it. Smash to half throttle if you feel it hook smash the rest of the way. Should all happen very quickly. Like saying out loud “one two“ fast. Try it and if it works do the one two even faster.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #3
Oversight on my part, 1.589, and appreciate the feedback on the “one two”, will experiment at the track, practice is key. I have only had it to the track for about 10 runs.
 


Markp

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#4
Oversight on my part, 1.589
Your leaving a lot on the table with that 60ft with your mph if you get your 60s down you should be running 9.5s or better. Using the one two trick I get 1.46 60s stock in my redeye. You should be able to get low 1.4s to high 1.3s if you can hook. Just takes time. Took me 200 passes to get it right.
 


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Thread Starter #5
I have a long way to go on the 200 passes, best part is learning
 


Markp

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#6
Also doing the one two trick will help save your diff and driveshaft because when you smash to half throttle if it hops you can quickly get out of it. If I feel any hop or any spin at all I just coast down the track and try again.
 


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Thread Starter #7
You are really moving with the stock Redeye, 10.17, nicely done
 


Mean Cat

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#8
Also try 20 psi, 18 might be a little low.
 


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Thread Starter #9
I would agree on the pressure, not knowing better, folks at the track kept telling me to lower, and the problem got worse.
 


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#10
I was having traction problems & started doing 20 psi & 3rd gear burnouts & haven't had a problem since, as long as prep is good.
 


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Thread Starter #11
In 2 weeks they have a drag and drift, will give the pressures some adjustment, and the 3rd gear burnouts would be good, as 1st and 2nd spin up so fast, boost hits and incineration.
 


Linda's Hell Cat

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#12
@Markp I'm glad my Tap + smash worked out for you.

@SchraderRacing you are exactly correct about practice.
Also @Mean Cat is correct about psi.
Try lowering 1 psi at a time.

The other thing MT ET rs don't need a huge burn out. I turn my morrow down and when I see the smoke starting to rise and I roll out.

When you put your brake on for the burnout try to push it as far as it goes. I find that during the burnout you want to try to keep the backend from going sideways. I think then when you roll out straight it helps from some of the wheel hop.
It's always been a finessing a Hemi launch.
But it can be done :)

Linda :)
 


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Thread Starter #13
Thank you Linda, love the forum, has helped me get to where I am today with my Cat.

The PSI, should I start at 22-23?
 


Linda's Hell Cat

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#14
Thank you Linda, love the forum, has helped me get to where I am today with my Cat.

The PSI, should I start at 22-23?
Well you haven't had much luck with 18psi go down to 17psi

I have 18s and race 17 17 1/2
 


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#15
Also try 20 psi, 18 might be a little low.
This is the first thing I would do. Start raising your air pressure one lb at a time. The ET-R’s work good with higher air pressure. Get out of it if it hops. Don’t drive through it or you’ll be replacing something. I would also check the torque on your cradle. That thing needs to be locked down tight and on the outside chance it’s not, that is one thing you can do that doesn’t cost anything. After that... get ready to spend some money.
 


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Thread Starter #16
This is the first thing I would do. Start raising your air pressure one lb at a time. The ET-R’s work good with higher air pressure. Get out of it if it hops. Don’t drive through it or you’ll be replacing something. I would also check the torque on your cradle. That thing needs to be locked down tight and on the outside chance it’s not, that is one thing you can do that doesn’t cost anything. After that... get ready to spend some money.
Thanks for the input, I was thinking of replacing the cradle bushings, will check them for tightness first, marked them the other day for movement once I hit the track.
 


BULL

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Watching
 


vortecd

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#18
AAD suspension arms would probably help a bunch for you. Some cars are worse then others and how flat the tires are from the factory.
 


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Thread Starter #19
AAD suspension arms would probably help a bunch for you. Some cars are worse then others and how flat the tires are from the factory.
Vortecd, I have BMR trailing arms, would you happen to know would they complement the other AAD components, or ditch the BMR?
 


OP
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Thread Starter #20
This is the first thing I would do. Start raising your air pressure one lb at a time. The ET-R’s work good with higher air pressure. Get out of it if it hops. Don’t drive through it or you’ll be replacing something. I would also check the torque on your cradle. That thing needs to be locked down tight and on the outside chance it’s not, that is one thing you can do that doesn’t cost anything. After that... get ready to spend some money.
Marc W, I saw your car pics in another post, did you get your cage done in the Arizona / UT area?
 




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