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2016 m6 transmission case bolts

Crsallen

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#1
Does anyone know the transmission case to bell housing mount bolt torque? I know housing to engine is 33lbs-ft. Any help is appreciated been digging around for a bit but coming up short
 


vortecd

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@16GoManGoHC2 may know
 


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Crsallen

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Thread Starter #3
I tested torque on the other case bolts elsewhere on the xmission and figured 45lb-ft looked good. Got it all back together, no lights and shifted fantastic on jacks. Road test will have to wait till the morning when it stops raining. Installed Mantic 3 disc cerametallic clutch w/aluminum flywheel, arp studs for flywheel, new pilot bearing, Mobil 1 full synthetic ATF, clutch delay valve is already modified from Mantic on the factory CSC (which is supplied) looks like the orfice is widened out so I left as is. Geoff from Mantic was awesome with recommendations and I talked directly to him if I needed anything. What an endeavor this was….I’m an aircraft mechanic and this was legit harder than anything I’ve done on a plane. Learning curve for sure but thanks to everyone here and all the threads and videos I looked up to make it possible, and my son helped alot and learned intimately how manual transmissions work. More updates as I get her broke in
 


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BULL

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Watching
 


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Damn, that really is a sexy looking clutch!
 


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Crsallen

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Thread Starter #6
Damn, that really is a sexy looking clutch!
Clutch bleed was like 20 pumps IF that but I did a healthy bench bleed of the CSC first, made it so much easier. Got her out after the roads dried and first impression of the clutch is it doesn’t feel stiffer over stock as far as effort, impressively it’s the same or easier as far as pedal feel. Gets slightly chattery( like barely a few pulses) in first gear but still under break in…got to rev just a little higher. Downshifting feels crispy and easier right off the bat. Not that I really got on it because that might hinder proper break in. Some nice clutch smells after you park it but to be expected, I think we burnt the Kroil (wd40/pb blaster type) off we used to break the exhaust bolts off after the first trip…was smoky in the garage on start up quite a smell lol. I plan on doing some go fast upgrades soon anyways so nice to have a strong clutch, I’d recommend to anyone so far
 


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BULL

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Cost?
 


OP
Crsallen

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Thread Starter #8
$2900. Includes the fancy case,factory CSC with clutch delay bypass, .5” CSC spacer, aluminum flywheel, new mopar flywheel bolts and all the goodies / detailed instructions that should come with a clutch at such price. Separately I purchased ARP studs, new pilot bearing, Mobil 1 ATF fluid x5 quarts, all that extra stuff you want for insurance(harbor freight 450lb xmission jack). Did it all on jack stands. Researched a little and reckoned dodge would charge upwards of $4500 for the clutch replacement WITH a factory clutch.
 


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BULL

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$2900. Includes the fancy case,factory CSC with clutch delay bypass, .5” CSC spacer, aluminum flywheel, new mopar flywheel bolts. Separately I purchased ARP studs, new pilot bearing, Mobil 1 ATF fluid x5 quarts, all that extra stuff you want for insurance

Part number for kit?

I went to their website and they don't seem to directly support Dodges??
 


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Crsallen

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Thread Starter #10

BULL

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Crsallen

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Thread Starter #12
Nothing on website, does your documentation state hp/tq that is supported?

And what made you pick this over either McCloud or Bad Boyzz?
Heard a lot of mixed reviews on mcloud after researching but can’t speak on the quality as I never purchased one. I liked how the Mantic is a full kit regarding the flywheel and bearing. Not knocking any other brands just after extensive research I decided to go with Mantic. I realize there are literally no reviews on it here so hopefully my input at least adds to options for us m6 guys. Website claims it can hold 600-2000hp. There should be a bunch of YouTube videos as well if you just google Mantic USA
 


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Why ATF fluid? Seems like I have heard bad things about deviating from the factory recommended viscosity?
 


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Crsallen

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Thread Starter #14
Why ATF fluid? Seems like I have heard bad things about deviating from the factory recommended viscosity?
Why ATF fluid? Seems like I have heard bad things about deviating from the factory recommended viscosity?
I did lots of research on this since I’d have the tranny out anyway and you’d be surprised there are lots of recommendations. Royal purple, amsoil, yes Mobil 1 synthetic ATF. Sounds weird but if you do some searches it comes up fairly often for the tr6060, specifically the hellcat tr6060 with the tall gears like the viper. In the end after all the confusion over ordering parts from multiple vendors I liked being able to drive to auto zone and grab the Mobil 1. (On one of my multiple trips back from harbor freight)
 


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Why ATF fluid? Seems like I have heard bad things about deviating from the factory recommended viscosity?
The factory fluid is ATF.
 


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Crsallen

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Thread Starter #17
Also wanted to add I used a very thin coat of “krytox” as specified by dodge to very VERY lightly lube the input shaft splines, as well as the face of the clutch diaphragm spring and CSC. Not too much as you don’t want it to fling. Also to add this was a great lubricant for installation. At first we couldn’t get the case to bell housing dowel pins to line up. Well maybe a reevaluation what you did that night pays off lol. I ran the bell housing ( to engine) bolts down with an electric ratchet and called it good. I took for granted the ratchet didn’t get anywhere near the 33lb-ft(I ended up using 40lbs-ft) that is required. Once I took everything apart and fixed it I literally shoved the transmission within. .5” of home. I did run the other mount bolts down to sorta press the last .5” home and I attribute this to the 3 disc clutch and CSC take up that is needed for proper engagement. I should include there is a specific measurement to be taken there to ensure you get proper clutch travel/engagement
 


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BULL

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Also wanted to add I used a very thin coat of “krytox” as specified by dodge to very VERY lightly lube the input shaft splines, as well as the face of the clutch diaphragm spring and CSC. Not too much as you don’t want it to fling. Also to add this was a great lubricant for installation. At first we couldn’t get the case to bell housing dowel pins to line up. Well maybe a reevaluation what you did that night pays off lol. I ran the bell housing ( to engine) bolts down with an electric ratchet and called it good. I took for granted the ratchet didn’t get anywhere near the 33lb-ft(I ended up using 40lbs-ft) that is required. Once I took everything apart and fixed it I literally shoved the transmission within. .5” of home. I did run the other mount bolts down to sorta press the last .5” home and I attribute this to the 3 disc clutch and CSC take up that is needed for proper engagement. I should include there is a specific measurement to be taken there to ensure you get proper clutch travel/engagement


Krytox?!?! :eek:


Are you certain?!
 


OP
Crsallen

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Thread Starter #19
I can do some more research on the krytox but the torque rating I got for said clutch was from Mantic. Not saying I could be wrong
 


BULL

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I can do some more research on the krytox but the torque rating I got for said clutch was from Mantic. Not saying I could be wrong


"Kytox" is obviously a brand, but in days of old, it was a VERY expensive grease that was exclusively used in clean rooms because it didn't outgas. (maybe they have more than one kind of "Krytox"?)

However, the real problem is that it is a fluorinated grease, and (could be wrong) supposedly when it gets hot, it then actually does outgas, and the gas is poisonous...

Seems like a bad place to use a grease that will get hot.


(I've got a tub of this grease in my box, bagged twice, and when we bought it 30 years ago, it was ~$1500. - A present that I kept when the automation company I was working for went bankrupt and out of business)
 


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