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Starting Issues

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2018 Charger Hellcat
#1
I have an 2018 Charger Hellcat. It had a slow start the from moment I drove it off the lot. Was told it was because battery had been dead and it would be fine after I drive it for awhile. That was in December 2018. Since that time car has been in the shop 19 times, mainly for starting issues. The problem is either slow start, or it begins to crank and then stalls, or it will crank a good 20 seconds and then stop without ever starting the engine. There has never been a code. Starter replaced twice. Battery and alternator are supposedly good. I have a case with Chrysler resolutions team. I’m wondering if anyone else has had this issue. I’m also asking for recommendations as to which dealership to take the car to. I live in So Cal.
 


BULL

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#2
My experience (and others here as well) There isn't a whole lot of "in between" on the batteries, they either work fine, or when the voltage drops too low, the cars become possessed.

All manner of crazy stuff you wouldn't begin to believe happens when the battery voltage gets low...

Imagine trying to start your PC/computer on low voltage...

@DodgeCares may be of some assistance, they are a direct line so to speak here on the forums, drop them a PM and see what help they can be.

;)
 


Hellcat Cuda

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#3
For no more than what a new battery costs, tell them to put a new one in and if it doesn't fix the problem, I'd pay for it.. I've had to do that sometimes on certain repairs with a Charger fleet I use to manage. The dealers often won't go beyond what the tech line back East tells them to do. If something was obvious to me, I told the dealer to do "this" or "that" and that if it didn't fix the problem, I'd pay for it. There was only one time that I wasn't right (on a $100 part) and they didn't make me pay for it. LOL
The other thing they need to look closely into is the ground wires, especially right around the battery.
 


OP
1bbadcat
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Thread Starter #4
My experience (and others here as well) There isn't a whole lot of "in between" on the batteries, they either work fine, or when the voltage drops too low, the cars become possessed.

All manner of crazy stuff you wouldn't begin to believe happens when the battery voltage gets low...

Imagine trying to start your PC/computer on low voltage...

@DodgeCares may be of some assistance, they are a direct line so to speak here on the forums, drop them a PM and see what help they can be.

;)
Thank you Mr. Bull I will contact @dodgecare. My battery voltage is 13.8
 


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#5
I have an 2018 Charger Hellcat. It had a slow start the from moment I drove it off the lot. Was told it was because battery had been dead and it would be fine after I drive it for awhile. That was in December 2018. Since that time car has been in the shop 19 times, mainly for starting issues. The problem is either slow start, or it begins to crank and then stalls, or it will crank a good 20 seconds and then stop without ever starting the engine. There has never been a code. Starter replaced twice. Battery and alternator are supposedly good. I have a case with Chrysler resolutions team. I’m wondering if anyone else has had this issue. I’m also asking for recommendations as to which dealership to take the car to. I live in So Cal.
There have been many HC owners solve various cranking issues with new batteries as the others have stated, but you can also properly test batteries so you know and are not guessing.

There are some good comments from other members in this thread. You mention that your voltage is at 13.8v, but that is with the engine running I believe?? 13.8v may indicate your alternator is good, but with the engine running at 1,500 RPM with a voltmeter hooked up, turn on the headlights, blower on high and rear defroster on...what is the voltage?? This will give you a great indication of alternator performance.

There are other battery checks that should be done before the running voltage is noted.

The battery has to have an open circuit (no load) voltage of 12.4v and stable (not decreasing).

Then, perform a battery load test. The load test should be 1/2 the CCA Rating for 15 seconds. Voltage should not drop below 9.6v during this test. Recharge the battery after this test.

Do a starter draw test. Crank the engine for 15 seconds (engine should not start; press accelerator all the way to the floor and hold while cranking; this prevents the engine from starting). Typical starter amperage draw is 200 to 250 amps. Battery voltage during test is usually around 10.5 volts during the test, but should never go below 9.6v. You can also see what voltage the alternator is putting out to recharge the battery after this cranking test, usually around 14.1 or .2 volts.

What is the cranking RPM?? You said your engine cranks strong, but what is the actual RPM and is it consistent during cranking?? North of 200 RPM??

There is a positive and negative side of the battery and all circuits. Both have to have good, clean and tight connections. The above tests will most likely vet these connections, but never assume anything.

If the above tests are good, what is the fuel pressure during cranking?? Steady fuel pressure has to always be available for the engine to start. Our HCs do have fuel pump relays and there have been some cars with bad or poorly connected fuel pump relays on their cars.

Lastly, these engines have sensors inputs the PCM needs to see before the engine will fire, i.e. Crank and Cam position sensors. Techs need to know which sensor inputs are required and how to test for them.

You commented your car has had two starters replaced. This is just throwing parts at a car and it appears did not fix the issues.

Hope some of this helps...

Best!
 


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OP
1bbadcat
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Thread Starter #6
There have been many HC owners solve various cranking issues with new batteries as the others have stated, but you can also properly test batteries so you know and are not guessing.

There are some good comments from other members in this thread. You mention that your voltage is at 13.8v, but that is with the engine running I believe?? 13.8v may indicate your alternator is good, but with the engine running at 1,500 RPM with a voltmeter hooked up, turn on the headlights, blower on high and rear defroster on...what is the voltage?? This will give you a great indication of alternator performance.

There are other battery checks that should be done before the running voltage is noted.

The battery has to have an open circuit (no load) voltage of 12.4v and stable (not decreasing).

Then, perform a battery load test. The load test should be 1/2 the CCA Rating for 15 seconds. Voltage should not drop below 9.6v during this test. Recharge the battery after this test.

Do a starter draw test. Crank the engine for 15 seconds (engine should not start; press accelerator all the way to the floor and hold while cranking; this prevents the engine from starting). Typical starter amperage draw is 200 to 250 amps. Battery voltage during test is usually around 10.5 volts during the test, but should never go below 9.6v. You can also see what voltage the alternator is putting out to recharge the battery after this cranking test, usually around 14.1 or .2 volts.

What is the cranking RPM?? You said your engine cranks strong, but what is the actual RPM and is it consistent during cranking?? North of 200 RPM??

There is a positive and negative side of the battery and all circuits. Both have to have good, clean and tight connections. The above tests will most likely vet these connections, but never assume anything.

If the above tests are good, what is the fuel pressure during cranking?? Steady fuel pressure has to always be available for the engine to start. Our HCs do have fuel pump relays and there have been some cars with bad or poorly connected fuel pump relays on their cars.

Lastly, these engines have sensors inputs the PCM needs to see before the engine will fire, i.e. Crank and Cam position sensors. Techs need to know which sensor inputs are required and how to test for them.

You commented your car has had two starters replaced. This is just throwing parts at a car and it appears did not fix the issues.

Hope some of this helps...

Best!
Thank you for taking the time to help me. That is a lot of very detailed information that I will definitely look into. About 30 minutes after I started this thread my car wouldn’t start. I waited a minute or two and then it started like there’s never been a problem. I took it straight to a dealership. They did a bunch of test right in front of me and the alternator burned up! Not sure if replacing it will solve all of the problems. I posted live on Instagram. It’s still on my story for another thre or four hours before it’s deleted. If anyone cares to watch it it happened about 1/3 way through the video. Follow me @1bbadcat
 


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Thread Starter #7
For no more than what a new battery costs, tell them to put a new one in and if it doesn't fix the problem, I'd pay for it.. I've had to do that sometimes on certain repairs with a Charger fleet I use to manage. The dealers often won't go beyond what the tech line back East tells them to do. If something was obvious to me, I told the dealer to do "this" or "that" and that if it didn't fix the problem, I'd pay for it. There was only one time that I wasn't right (on a $100 part) and they didn't make me pay for it. LOL
The other thing they need to look closely into is the ground wires, especially right around the battery.
Thank you I will definitely do that. The battery had been dead for a long time. The car was sitting on the lot for awhile. They spent a long time charging it before I left the dealership the day I bought it.
 


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#8
Thank you I will definitely do that. The battery had been dead for a long time. The car was sitting on the lot for awhile. They spent a long time charging it before I left the dealership the day I bought it.
Yeah, that doesn't sound good.... might have been a brand new BAD battery...
 


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#9
Thank you for taking the time to help me. That is a lot of very detailed information that I will definitely look into. About 30 minutes after I started this thread my car wouldn’t start. I waited a minute or two and then it started like there’s never been a problem. I took it straight to a dealership. They did a bunch of test right in front of me and the alternator burned up! Not sure if replacing it will solve all of the problems. I posted live on Instagram. It’s still on my story for another thre or four hours before it’s deleted. If anyone cares to watch it it happened about 1/3 way through the video. Follow me @1bbadcat
Respectfully, when you say , "it wouldn't start," that is really vague. Did it start cranking right away when the Start Button was pressed?? Was the cranking RPM good and strong and consistent as per my previous??
 


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#10
Any chance you can post your video here as well?
 


Catless

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#11
Any lead acid battery that is discharged to "dead" is damaged. The longer it sets "dead" the greater the damage.
 


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#12
My car had a slow start issue. Once it cranked, coughed, then quit. Usually worse when car was warm. It would cold start okay but after a drive if I parked for 10-20 minuets then started it, the start would be slow. This behavior was present from brand new off the lot. Being adverse to dealer visits, I put a new battery in it. Has not reoccurred since. May not be your issue but with as much trouble as you have had I'd insist on a new battery. Even if it passes a load test. In the shop 19 times....not acceptable. I'd be getting very cranky and talking about lemon law.

Agree with the above post that once a battery goes dead flat it is damaged. This probably has a good chance of happening during transport and sitting on the dealers lot.
 


Hickster

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#13
This forum has given me the insight of what I was wanting to know. My 2018 H/C has been in the body shop long enough to drain the battery to 0. What am I looking at to revive this critter when it is done. Answer,, I am sure a new battery. But if that is worst case then not so bad. My thinking is,,, will the controls, set gpms locations, radio locations, phone #s stored, ect ect. Be destroyed and reprogrammed. As in, crap, start over???
 


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#14
I have an 2018 Charger Hellcat. It had a slow start the from moment I drove it off the lot. Was told it was because battery had been dead and it would be fine after I drive it for awhile. That was in December 2018. Since that time car has been in the shop 19 times, mainly for starting issues. The problem is either slow start, or it begins to crank and then stalls, or it will crank a good 20 seconds and then stop without ever starting the engine. There has never been a code. Starter replaced twice. Battery and alternator are supposedly good. I have a case with Chrysler resolutions team. I’m wondering if anyone else has had this issue. I’m also asking for recommendations as to which dealership to take the car to. I live in So Cal.
When you install anything new, i.e. a new battery, all this means is the battery is new; is does NOT mean it is any good. Many here have found this out when a new vehicle battery does not perform. Thus, the importance of knowing how to properly test battery, starting and charging systems per my other post and not GUESS. :)

Another thought.... if the dealer is resigned to throwing/guessing parts at your car (2 starters), have them throw both a Crank and Cam Sensor at your car. At the very least, have them check the connections at those sensors.

Your symptom reminds me of similar hard crank and ghost stall symptoms back when some manufacturers first came out with Crank Position Sensors and Mass Air Flow Sensors. Back then, replacing these two sensors eliminated the hard crank and ghost stall complaints.

Don't forget about fuel pressure (y)

Best!
 


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#15
This forum has given me the insight of what I was wanting to know. My 2018 H/C has been in the body shop long enough to drain the battery to 0. What am I looking at to revive this critter when it is done. Answer,, I am sure a new battery. But if that is worst case then not so bad. My thinking is,,, will the controls, set gpms locations, radio locations, phone #s stored, ect ect. Be destroyed and reprogrammed. As in, crap, start over???
It only took me about 10 minutes to swap the battery out. During that amount of time none of my settings were lost. Not sure if they would be over a longer period of time. I did have a different display on first start but shutting down for a few and restarting resulted in the normal SRT screens and info displays.
 


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#16
Heard of this issue before and everytime a new battery fixed it. When I went shopping for a Hellcat in 2018, one dealer had many 2017s in stock and everyone of them had a battery dead as a door nail. Mine was built in mid February and I purchased in April so mine didn't sit too long. Let us know what you find out. Appreciate you sharing this with us all.
 


Catless

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#17
If I were buying a vehicle new or used and the battery was dead (discharged), I would make a new battery part of deal unless I was looking at $500 beater.
 


SilverBillet

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#18
They need to diagnose a faulty battery for it to be covered under your warranty. Check your own battery voltage before you start the car the next time. If you don’t have a multi-meter, buy one. They are not expensive.
 




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